UKH

I am in the market for a new climbing shoe but unfortunately live in town without good climbing stores - at least not ones with a decent range. So I'm looking for some advice so I can buy online without totally gambling. 

My current shoes are Testorosas - and they are the best shoes I've ever worn...except for the heel. My heel is just a bit too thin and the shoe was just a bit baggy making hard heels a bit tenuous. 

Is there another Sportiva with as good (or almost as good) performance but a thinner heel? What about Geniuses?

Previously I've been a 5.10 Anasazi fanatic until I realised the world had moved on even if I hadn't. This is reason that despite climbing at a pretty decent level for 15 years, I haven't yet really got my shoes sorted. 

I forgot to say, that the climbing I care about is steep sport climbing on sandstone. For those that travelled, Nowra and the Blue Mountains are my home crags. Although I do climb on other rock and styles, I'm not too worried about getting the utmost out of my shoes for those.

Also, I'm not sure it matters, but I'm actually Australian - I'm asking here because the only decent Austrialian forum died as people migrated to Facebook.  

I found the fit on the Genius a little odd, the sizing doesn't seem to match up with the rest of the range. I do like the heel on them though, probably the best part of the shoe. Have you tried the Skwama or the Otaki? The heel is a bit of a lump but its good for big smeary heel hooks, Not great if you're trying to heel hook on small edges. I've started using the Kataki (a mix between the Otakia and Katana Lace) for sport (limestone) which I think are really underrated. Stiffer than the Otaki with great edging. My favourite heel hooking La Sportiva shoes were the old school Pythons, nice slim heel, you can pick them up pretty cheap now, but they are softer and more suited to bouldering IMO. 

I would 100% recommend that if you get the chance it would be worthwhile trying on a pair of Scarpa Dragos or Chimeras, they are ridiculously comfortable, great on sandstone and grit and definitely aggressive enough for overhanging routes. It's all about fit but I know many people who swear by them.

Second the drago and chimera recommendation they are both excellent although the the drago is very very soft especially once worn in

What I would say is that the Testarossa is built on LS’ most aggressive last, the only shoe which is built on the same last is the Genius. The Testarossa is a wide show by Sportiva standards so I’m guessing you’ve got broad-ish feet..?

Saw you mention the Genius. No-Edge shoes are a really interesting one. I climb in them quite regularly, and currently own Speedsters (41.5), Futura (41.5) and Genius (41.5 & 42). I’ve climbed in No-Edge shoes on a range of routes, from eliminate lowball boulder problems to Alpine grand courses. 
 

For me they work really well, the only time I struggle with them is on cracks smaller than a .75 size. That being said not every NE shoe is for everyone, not every NE shoe is for every route. Generally the Genius works best on Granite and Limestone. Whereas I can find that I prefer my speedsters or futuras on sandstones (I climb fairly regularly in Northumberland, and confusingly also Southern Sandstone). 
 

There’s also some important considerations around sizing with No-Edge shoes that you’d do well to bear in mind. 

A friend of mine wrote this article on them, and generally I find it chimes with my experience of them. https://www.no-thrills.com/no-edge-climbing-shoe