UKH

Hi can anyone tell me the difference between the different treatments for climbing ropes i.e. dry treatment and full treatment? 

The geekier the answer the better 

Thanks in advance  

In reply to ibexguiding:

It depends a little on whose ropes you are looking at, as manufacturers use different terminology for their treatments. Usually 'dry treatment', or words to that effect, indicates treatment being applied throughout, though I think Beal have one variation where just the sheath is given a coating, and another where both sheath and core. Just coating the sheath is less expensive, but also less effective, or at least less long-lived.

If I remember rightly there's a UIAA standard for what they think constitutes an effective dry treatment (something like 'won't absorb enough water to increase weight by 2%'), so it's probably most helpful to look for that when comparing.

In reply to nufkin: Ok thanks mate I was looking at the Beal Jokers, they come in dry cover and golden dry so I'm assuming that dry cover is just the sheath that's treated. So I'll get the golden dry  

In reply to ibexguiding:

'Dry' is showerproof, in just an ordinary shower, whereas 'Golden Dry' is..   actually, let's just go with your assumption.

In reply to ibexguiding:

Others have explained the differences. It might also be useful to note that a wet rope is slightly weaker than when dry. Probably not by much though.  

I've got a pair of Beal 60m 8.6mm Cobra II with golden dry treatment. They handle really well.

In reply to ibexguiding:

This may answer your question....

https://www.no-thrills.com/dry-treatment-rope

In reply to GGD:

I would look elsewhere. My impression is that "the no thrills team" has quickly thrown together this piece from some stuff they found elsewhere on the internet, a poor excuse to beg $3 "for a coffee". They are not contributing genuine in-depth knowledge and experience like some bloggers. Their description of the UIAA test is inaccurate. I'd take with a pinch of salt their assertion that Beal are the best "at the time of writing" since they have not bothered to say when that was nor offered any direct comparison with the best from other makers.

Dry-treatment is not a "no-brainer" as they put it. It is more environmentally damaging than standard rope. It has used and no doubt still uses chemicals that accumulate in our bodies and are harmful to health. That can wear-off on our hands. So why pay the extra if you don't really need it?

In reply to matthew:

I shared, as it chimed with experience of Beal's golden dry vs other brand's treatments on their top spec halves including Mammut, Edelweiss and Edelrid, from my personal use over a number of years from Scotland to Patagonia and grit edges to big walls, and alpine mixed routes. If you've found a better treatment than golden dry, please share I'd love to know!

Yes dry treating is an environmentally 'expensive' procedure. But so is the manufacture of any technical softgood, -dyneema tape and slings, GoreTex fabrics etc. The way I see it, the best we can offset this, is by making our gear last as long as possible. So I am somewhat sympathetic to the argument that the increased durability of a dry treated ropes goes soemway to offsetting the negative externalities of the treatment process.

Yeah they're asking for money but that's the way of the world these days and no one is making you pay them. I live in the Edinburgh area so have purchased their bouldering guidebooks before and was generally pleased with the quality. But I'd never donate money for free content. Take a similar attitude with a lot of bloggers and content creators. Have purchased a number of Andy Kirkpatricks publications in various formats, but never donate after reading his articles. 

On the health concerns front, I know a researcher who's work focuses on plastic contamination and lasting health effects. If you think your rope is going to be the deal breaker between you and an endocrinologicaly disruptive health disaster, you've got another thing coming.