Approach boots to base of mera peak, ama dablam

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 Burly1973 26 Mar 2020

Hi all,

looking for some help...

I have various mountaineering boots for ice climbing and winter alps etc , and my question is what sort of boots do people use to approach mera peak/ ama dablam ?

thanks,

Burly

 KA 26 Mar 2020
In reply to Burly1973:

I wore approach shoes as far as camp 1 on Ama Dablam (and Island Peak base camp), before needing to switch to Spantiks. I know that some folk go right up to camp 2 in approach shoes, but I suspect whether this is feasible will change slightly from season to season.

OP Burly1973 26 Mar 2020
In reply to KA:

Thanks Ken so any decent light approach boots will do.

Thanks

 KA 26 Mar 2020
In reply to Burly1973:

No problem, I know that a number of expedition companies recommend 3 season hiking boots, probably just to err on the side of caution and it might depend on how you are transporting all of your gear (whether you're using porters/yaks or carrying a lot yourself), but, the trails are very good and well maintained.

 AndyC 26 Mar 2020
In reply to KA:

When I went to Mera in spring 1998, we were in snow from the day after we left Lukhla. There were avalanches on the Zatrwla and our mess tent was destroyed. The trails were barely paths and there was definitely no maintenance being done. I guess it's not only the climate that's changed!

 andrewm1000 27 Mar 2020
In reply to Burly1973: approach shoes or really light comfy boots for Mera all the way to Kare. Then boots for Mera La, high camp and summit days. Regards Andrew

OP Burly1973 29 Mar 2020
In reply to Burly1973: thanks to all for the feeback

 JamieH 29 Mar 2020
In reply to Burly1973:

Mera Peak, I used approach shoes to Khare and Sportiva G2’s to Mera La, high camp and summit. 
On Ama Dablam, as Ken says it can vary and I’ve been to Camp 2, in dry conditions, in approach shoes. Last year the SW ridge was in prime condition, and I opted for G2’s from Camp 1 onwards. 
Some things to bear in mind, ensure you’ve got some toe wriggle room in your high altitude boots. Mera might be straightforward but it can be chilly. Autumn on Ama Dablam gets progressively colder and December summit days can dip to -20 C. Pre-expedition footwork training in your big boots will help you enjoy the great granite climbing between Camp 1 and Camp 2. Consider switching to big boots a day before you need them, so as to get used to them. 
They are both amazing mountains. 


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