REVIEW: Edelrid Beast Crampon

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 UKC/UKH Gear 11 Mar 2020
It'a a modular technical crampon that can be set in six different configurations Similar to models such as the BD Cyborg, Petzl LYNX and Grivel G14, the Beast can be set up in twin or monopoint mode. You also get three different toe bails for the price of just one pair of crampons. This versatility is a real bonus, reckons Dan Bailey. It's just a shame replacement points are so expensive!

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 vscott 11 Mar 2020
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Nice review Dan. Re replacement points, looks like they have a screw thread machined into them which might add a little expense compared to other brands which have slots/holes and separate (generic part) bolts?

 TobyA 11 Mar 2020
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Seconding vscott - a good review Dan!

Gosh - writing the review of the Lite version feels a long time ago - you can tell from video attached I was going through my under-employed year!

I remember comparing the alu ones at the time with pictures of the steel version and it does look like the steel ones have better secondary points, so even if they are less than the secondary points from other brands, at least they must give more support than the points on the Lite model.

I moved back to the UK just a few months after the Beast Lite review was published so I've mainly used mine as a ski touring crampon as they are so much lighter than my other crampons. But I've decided particularly winter climbing in England and Wales, that shorter downward points on crampons are often an advantage, for exactly the reason you say in your review: they make crossing exposed rock and particularly scree easier than when you have longer points. At the same time slightly shorter downward points don't seem to be any disadvantage when on deeper snow or neve. So for example, I have G12s and CT Nuptse crampons and for general mountaineering in the UK I've found I prefer the CT ones because the points are slightly shorter and you feel you 'teeter' in them less walking on rock, scree etc. The Beasts look good for UK use from that perspective.

In reply to vscott:

Thanks! 

Yes, you're right: there's a thread in the front point. I hadn't thought of that. Still, I suppose the affordability is an issue regardless! 

In reply to TobyA:

Quite right Toby, I do think slightly shorter underfoot points are generally preferable. I've yet to notice a disadvantage


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