Petzl Jumar vs alternatives?

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 Tigger 28 Jan 2020

As the title suggests really how to other ascenders compare to Petzl, Fixe for example? 

We're looking at getting to a few more remote locations this year, and wouldn't mind something a little quicker to use than Prusik loops as they may be getting used a lot.

Cheers

 OliverR17 28 Jan 2020
In reply to Tigger:

Were you thinking handled ascenders for hundreds of metres of jumaring up fixed lines, or more a little device to get you out of "oh dear wrong sea cliff"? 

In terms of handled ascenders, the petzl gear is pretty light and flows well over thick, wet, mud caked ropes; though technique and practice makes more of a difference. However I'd never clip my jumars to the back of my harness.

If you're thinking along the lines of tibloc, kong duck, microtraxion etc, then it's worth thinking the specific scenarios you'd use them for and that usually helps you decide (using the microtraxion for hauling may screw up your dynamic ropes, but if it's hauling your mate out a crevasse then worth it).

Post edited at 16:52
OP Tigger 28 Jan 2020
In reply to OliverR17:

Probably more 'oh crap wrong sea cliff' 'oh carp there's the tide' and 'oh crap I've just fallen off the overhanging traverse' and ideally not a tibloc.

I'm trying to suss what the best system, and saw some Fixe handle type ascenders going cheap.

 Gavin 29 Jan 2020
In reply to Tigger:

If it's the tibloc teeth you're opposed to, then don't forget that the Petzl ascender is also toothed.

What about a Wild Country Ropeman as a suggestion?

 tehmarks 29 Jan 2020
In reply to Tigger:

The Microtraxion is my go-to tiny emergency ascender/crevasse rescue tool/hauling aid/sketchky simulclimbing protection. But, for balance, I haven't used any of the likely alternatives. I have no criticism of it - it's a wonderful bit of gear.

 Fellover 29 Jan 2020
In reply to Tigger:

I've used both the fixe and petal jumars and prefer the petzl, they just feel nicer somehow. Both worked fine though and there was nothing wrong with the fixe ones atall.

If you just want something that's basically a slightly easier to use prusik for the rare occasion you have to climb the rope out of a sea cliff then a Kong duck might be worth considering? A lot lighter than a jumar and no teeth so kind to the rope. Lots of other uses like hauling a light bag and great for moving together, so a lot more multi-purpose than a jumar, but also a lot more annoying to actually use for jumaring...

Edit to add: ducks are way cheaper than a jumar or microtrax as well.

Post edited at 11:06
 SteveD 29 Jan 2020
In reply to OliverR17:

I think people over play the toothed damage to ropes on camming devices like the ropeman and micro traxion.  (Not convinced with the tibloc)

I recently had to rig a system that used a micro traxion as a progress capture on dynamic rope hauling a 60kg load repeatedly to the same height.  After each haul the rope was checked for damage.  After 20 or so cycles there was no discernable damage to the rope at all despite it stopping in exactly the same place each time.

I'm also a member of a cliff rescue team and we use jumar's to climb ropes all the time with no significant damage noted in normal use. Although these are semi static ropes not dynamic

Post edited at 11:32
 Fellover 29 Jan 2020
In reply to SteveD:

> I think people over play the toothed damage to ropes on camming devices like the ropeman and micro traxion.  (Not convinced with the tibloc)

I think this is true.

 MischaHY 29 Jan 2020
In reply to Tigger:

Microtrax is the one. Pair it with a fat oval screwgate and you've got a decent handle too. 

 JonLongshanks 29 Jan 2020
In reply to Tigger:

I agree with getting a microtraxion for that sort of thing. Most versatile and small enough to forget about.

Like Steve said dont worry about toothed cams. Unless you're putting silly loads on them, they just push in between the fibres of the rope rather than breaking them. 

 Toerag 29 Jan 2020
In reply to JonLongshanks:

>  Like Steve said dont worry about toothed cams. Unless you're putting silly loads on them, they just push in between the fibres of the rope rather than breaking them. 

They are significantly more snaggy though, depending on what you're doing with them it's a nuisance.

cb294 29 Jan 2020
In reply to MischaHY:

+1, my setup as well, Microtrax plus the biggest screw gate on my rack (Boa?). I also have a second rope camming device (Kong Duck) that I sometimes use for a crevasse hauling kit.

CB

OP Tigger 29 Jan 2020
In reply to Tigger:

Thanks for all the suggestions folks, I'll het studying!

 henwardian 29 Jan 2020
In reply to Tigger:

I have a couple of old Petzl ones and while I find them very useful and functional, I always feel that my pinky is getting rubbed and crushed by the rope when using them. I don't know how other models compare on that front though.

 SteveD 30 Jan 2020
In reply to Toerag:

Just need to practice more 😉

 EdS 30 Jan 2020
In reply to Tigger:

Ask the experts.... cavers. SRT / rope climbing is something climbers are pretty bad at by and large

https://starlessriver.com/shop/ascenders

Give Tony a ring

Post edited at 21:48

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