EB replacements? ( rock shoes)

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 Basemetal 20 Dec 2019

Suggestions please I'd like to replace my 1979 pair of EBs with something functionally similar for Scottish  multipitch mid grades (Severe to HVS). I've lately been using 5.10 Tennies, but they're a bit flexy on thin edges and I'd like a smooth sole and reasonably hard rubber for the long classic  routes. Something approaching comfort would be essential. What shoul I be looking at? I'm a reasonably wide size 46, more Scarpa than La Sportiva in big boots.

Thanks for any help.

Post edited at 11:50
1
 PaulJepson 20 Dec 2019
In reply to Basemetal:

Sportiva TC Pro sounds like it might fit the bill. 

I like Scarpa Vapour Vs for all my climbing as I have quite a wide foot but they changed them this year for the considerable worse, so I wouldn't recommend the new version of these (you might still be able to find the older model for cheapsies in your large size).

In reply to Basemetal:

Well the modern trend is towards shoes rather than boots.  The only thing I can think of that MAY come near are La Sportiva TC Pro's but the price will make your eyes water. I have a pair of Sportiva Rockjocks which are very good but they don't make them any more and I don't know what the replacement is.

https://www.lasportiva.com/en/tc-pro

Al

 MischaHY 20 Dec 2019
In reply to Basemetal:

The Boreal Ballet seems much closer to the mark than the TC Pro: 

https://www.alpinetrek.co.uk/boreal-ballet-climbing-shoes/

 MischaHY 20 Dec 2019
In reply to Basemetal:

The Boreal Ballet seems much closer to the mark than the TC Pro: 

https://www.alpinetrek.co.uk/boreal-ballet-climbing-shoes/

 Martin Bennett 20 Dec 2019
In reply to Basemetal:

I'm old enough to have had several pairs of EBs when it was just about all you could get. I later had the Boreal Ballet and reckoned they were the nearest thing to EBs I'd had. Brilliant. Had 'em resoled 2ce. I believe there's now again a Boreal Ballet available with the high ankle. No idea if they're in any way like the older version.

OR: a 3rd for the TCPro. Impressed that nearly everybody had 'em when I was at Red Rocks a couple of years ago and swore by them I got some. But because I reckoned the rubber was a bit harder and therefore seemed less sticky I went off them and sold them. If I'm right about that they could be just what you're after AND they have ankle cover a la EB.

FOOTNOTE: I note Alex Honnold doesn't have any trouble with their stickiness, nor owt else about them!

 PaulJepson 20 Dec 2019
In reply to Martin Bennett:

Yah they're a very specific beast. Made extra stiff so you can jam in comfort and spend day after day in them. 

They were designed with Tommy Caldwell (or TC...) with that kind of granite in mind. I've no experience of them so cannot comment myself but they sounded like they might work for all-day multi-pitches and stiffness. 

 AlanLittle 20 Dec 2019
In reply to Basemetal:

> EBs ... Something approaching comfort

Huh? 

OP Basemetal 20 Dec 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Huh? 


Hoped for some progress in the intervening 4 decades... Apparently in vain!?

The Ballets and TC Pros both  look spot on to me,  Thanks Guys.

 imahuman118 22 Dec 2019
In reply to Basemetal:

If you prefer Scarpa's, the Maestro or Maestro mid is a real competitor for the TC pro.

Alternatively 5.10 anasazi pro for wide feet. Pinks are narrow but probably the stiffest shoe you can buy atm.

 John Ww 22 Dec 2019
In reply to Basemetal:

If you can get hold of a pair, La Sportiva Rock Jocks! I got the forefoot resoled with sticky rubber, but left the heel section alone, which gives you the best of both worlds - sticky but comfy for long routes, all-day wearability, and safe and comfortable for descending. The older I get, and the more knackered my feet and toes get, the more I wear them.


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