Midlayer for winter climbing.

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 DaveHK 17 Nov 2019

I'm looking for a new winter climbing midlayer and have narrowed it down to two options, the Rab Cirrus Flex and the ME Switch Pro hooded jacket.

Does anyone have any gen on these or other suggestions?

Ta.

 TobyA 17 Nov 2019
In reply to DaveHK:

I've not used either but they are interestingly quite different? How come you aren't interested in the Rab version of the Switch, their Alpha Flux looks quite similar to the ME one?

I've tried synthetically insulated midlayers a bit like the Cirrus in the past and found I got sweaty inside the bit with insulation. https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/clothing/synthetic_insulation/marmot_varian... That, and using the Alpkit Heiko as a mid layer and getting sweaty in that too, has made me a bit leary of synthetic insulation midlayers - I reckon two extra layers of Pertex or similar catches sweat, on me at least. I've not tried the Buffalo knock-off furry Alpha style jackets, but Buffalos worked for me for years, so fur and then just one layer of Pertex type material makes more sense to me.

In reply to DaveHK:

Something along the lines of the Cirrus synthetic, but 60% cheaper:

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/sprint-mens-hybrid-jacket-id_8363309.html

2
 HeMa 18 Nov 2019
In reply to TobyA:

Well, I’ve have replaced fleece/wool with a synth pullover (Inov8 thermoshell). I do get mildly sweaty in it, If I have too much on during the approach. But absolutely stellar whilst actually climbing. 
 

Granted it’s generally colder where I live. But used a similar system whilst I took part BMC winter meet in 2014 or so.

planning on replacing it with a polartec alpha jacket this season (If I get out). But it seems that the alpha might be a tad too warm.

OP DaveHK 18 Nov 2019
In reply to TobyA:

Hi Toby,

I'd narrowed it down to those two simply because that's what was available and fitted in Aviemore yesterday!

I wasn't really aware of the alpha system but have since done some googling and will check it out.

Edit: just realised the Switch is alpha but with it sandwiched between two layers rather than the more recent ones just with a shell.

Post edited at 06:51
 planetmarshall 18 Nov 2019
In reply to DaveHK:

Have gone with an Arcteryx Atom LT (hoodless) for about 5 years now. In half-decent weather I often just wear it as an outer layer.

 TobyA 18 Nov 2019
In reply to DaveHK:

> Edit: just realised the Switch is alpha but with it sandwiched between two layers rather than the more recent ones just with a shell.

Their website isn't very clear on that is it? I had sort of presumed it was unlined Alpha, but maybe not then. I used a very early Alpha insulated jacket from Marmot, before anyone had thought of stripping the linings out, and found it a bit sweaty but that might have been more to do with the outer material. http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2014/02/marmot-isotherm-hoodypolartec...

OP DaveHK 18 Nov 2019
In reply to DaveHK:

After some further research I think I'm going to stick with what I've got.

For the last few years I've climbed with a Rab powergrid thing and a ME Eclipse hoodie with hardshell over the top, so two grid 'fleece' layers. I've found it plenty warm and none of the more modern garments are likely to breathe better because they all have some sort of wind resistant outer. I think it's pretty rare that I'd want to climb without a hardshell in Scotland so stuff like the alpha and primaloft midlayers start to make less sense.

Post edited at 13:56
 elliptic 18 Nov 2019
In reply to TobyA:

> Their website isn't very clear on that is it? I had sort of presumed it was unlined Alpha, but maybe not then. 

There's definitely a lining on the alpha fabric sections of the jacket (which is most of it) I can say for sure having tried one on yesterday! The grid fleece bits (inside the arms and round the back of the neck) aren't lined or shelled though. 

FWIW I've been using an Alpha Flux as a midlayer for a couple of years (not the Alpha Direct, the lighter unshelled one) and I'm very much a fan of the fabric though it's let down slightly by the non-insulated strips on the inside of the arms.


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