Mountain Literature Classics: One Man's Mountains by Tom Patey

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One man reading One Man's Mountains in the mountains It's a mess of a book, says Ronald Turnbull, but this posthumous collection from one of climbing's most sardonic wits remains a classic.

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 nathan79 30 Sep 2019
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

It's an enjoyable read. I picked up a used copy via Amazon for the grand sum of 1p (plus a couple of quid postage but still well worth it.).

 d_b 30 Sep 2019
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

"The Art of Climbing Down Gracefully" is possibly my favourite mountaineering article.  I have managed to apply almost all the techniques.

There are a few other Tom Patey routes within reach of a VF/Severe climber.  Squareface would be the obvious one if you don't mind walking. 

I would even go out on a limb and say a S climber with slab experience could second "Wrecker's Slab" without too much difficulty.  It gets VS for long runouts and a few suspect holds but there's nothing actually hard.

In reply to d_b:

I would suggest that a 14 year old girl with no previous climbing experience could second Wreckers Slab just fine.

jcm

 d_b 30 Sep 2019
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Why wait to 14?  My 3 year old can do heel hooks at head height when she is is trying to get past obstacles like the gate on her bedroom door.

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

Patey finds the remains of a climbing boot whilst moving up the decaying, collapsing wall of the North Face of the Eiger with Whillans. 

"Is there still a foot in it?" asks Don. 

They don't make them like they used to....which is maybe no bad thing. 

Post edited at 17:33
2
 Jim Walton 01 Oct 2019
In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

"The Zero Gully Affair" was always my favourite chapter.

Tom Patey died before I was born but he did seem quite a character.  Many tales are told of his after work endeavors grabbing quick new routes inbetween GP Surgery's.   There is also the tale of his rescue (solo) of two fallen climbers in Torridon  which he (I believe) won a bravery award for.  The full details of this rescue, and others, can be found in the excellent and often forgotten book The Black Cloud by Ian Thompson.


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