Dolomites easy multi pitch

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 Nicola 21 Aug 2019

I’m looking for an easy sport multi pitch route in the dolomites. I’ve done a fair amount of Via Ferrata there, but would like to find a bit of a challenge. I’ve done plenty of climbing in the past, but I’m very out of practice. I’ve got a year to get fit. 

Im looking for recommendations of routes about 5 pitches or so, grades up to 6a. 

Thanks

 JLS 22 Aug 2019
In reply to Nicola:

I'm not sure there is all that much in the way of multi-pitch sport at that grade. The mutlipitch sport tends to start at around 6b. Others may be better informed that I.

I've not done it but this might be an option...

Mani Della Guida (6a)

Post edited at 08:41
OP Nicola 22 Aug 2019
In reply to JLS:

Thanks. I did wonder that I might be looking for the impossible! 

Ive found a 2 pitch 4c. I might have to settle for shorter, or aim higher in the grade. 

 Ben_Climber 22 Aug 2019
In reply to Nicola:

Piaz Arete/Delagokante (IV+)

South Arête (IV+)

Both great little intro routes.

They have cemented belays and plenty of fixed gear, a small rack of nuts is advisable if you want to be extra safe.

Post edited at 10:11
OP Nicola 22 Aug 2019
In reply to Ben_Climber:

Fab! Thank you

 beardy mike 22 Aug 2019
In reply to Nicola:

Get a copy of this. There are a few routes below 6a, often they have a mixture of bolts, threads and fixed pitons. They are certainly not straight up "sport" routes. You still need to able to find your way up some bloody big pieces of rock, and carrying a light set of nuts like some WC Superlights and offset superlights is nearly always advisable on routes like this just incase you manage to lose your way.

https://www.ibs.it/arrampicare-su-vie-moderne-dolomiti-libro-armin-oberholl...

 JLS 22 Aug 2019
In reply to Nicola:

If you can up your grade a notch to 6a+ then there’s fully bolted stuff here...

Oscura della Luna Short walk in and undemanding descent.

De Profundis (6a+) is billed as the easiest outing.

I tried Indian Summer (6a+) a couple of years ago but got rained off after 3 pitches.

Obviously, if you are not averse to getting involved in placing a few wires then you options increase considerably. A lot of the popular trad routes have fixed belays and in situ pegs protecting the harder moves.

 Kean 23 Aug 2019
In reply to Nicola:

Check out Via En Coulisse...it's a semi-bolted route at a modest grade. ...Via en Coulisse (V) although, judging by people's comments, the Rockfax topo looks like it might be a bit dodgy.

The topo here should be more reliable...(In Italian though!). https://studylibit.com/doc/7421446/piramide-del-col-dei-bois-via-en-couliss...

I did it years ago so can't remember the details

 Bob M 23 Aug 2019
In reply to Nicola:

This crag has a couple of routes

Porte Neigre

It fitted the bill when we were looking for a non-serious day due to a dodgy weather forecast, but not really what Dolomites climbing is all about.

Another vote for the Delagokante as an intro to the full Dolomite climbing experience - spectacular scenery, mega exposure, a proper summit with abseil descent, at a very amenable grade.  There's some great video of the route on the recent Eric Jones TV programme.

Post edited at 20:46

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