UKH

Great mountain writing doesn't have to involve great mountains, says Ronald Turnbull, and this charming account of postwar bumbling is a case in point.

Read more

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

I think I first read this some 40 years ago & that edition looks like the copy I have (2nd hand from somewhere). A great classic, is it still in print ?

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

Yes it's a really charming, entertaining little book. I've got it on my bookshelf. Must re-read it. 

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

The accounts of getting around without cars and unconventional sleeping arrangements are some of the best parts of the book.

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

This is one of the great pieces of mountain literature. The pure joy of being out and in the hills seeps from every pore of it. There are epics, but no world-changing climbs - this is history written by the minor characters. The Creag Dhu and the Ptarmigan (the leading clubs in Scotland at the time) are mentioned, but are not central to the story..

If you haven't read it, do yourself a favour and find a copy!

Steve

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

This orbituary by Jim Perrin may be of interest

https://www.theguardian.com/news/2003/oct/09/guardianobituaries.booksobitua...

In reply to Doug:

Thanks, I hadn't seen that. 

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

The cover photo looks amazing. Does anyone know where it was taken please? Any further detail like what route would also be appreciated. Looks like the far North West of Scotland to me like Stac Pollaidh or similar.

In reply to Mark Collins:

Rose Route on Suilven maybe? That neck of the woods anyway if not that exact route.

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

Even this charming little article doesn’t do the book justice; it’s easily the best, and also the funniest, book written about UK climbing.

jcm

In reply to DaveHK:

Well done. The picture appeared in Scottish Climbs Vol 2 (H MacInnes) and is captioned "Climbing on Caisteal Liath Suilven"

In reply to Andy2:

I've got that somewhere, will need to dig it out.

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

Is it available as a reprint? I would buy it for one.

In reply to DaveHK:

Thanks. Pleased that I wasn't too far off.

In reply to DaveHK:

I'm amused by your gloriously inappropriate metaphor 'neck of the woods' for a bleak landscape that has scarcely a stunted tree in sight for hundreds of square miles.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

I'm generally quite good at gloriously inappropriate.

In reply to Andy2:

But the scatter of lochans in the distance isn't right for Suilven; looks to me as if it was taken from Lurgainn Edge or some other route on the W side of Cul Beag, looking north

In reply to rif:

I looked at the 1:25,000 map and thought the lochan pattern was spot on for Suilven. There are three lochs with Loch nam Breac Mora written beside them and the one that disappears behind the rock looks like the easternmost of these.

In reply to rif:

No, I think Suilven is right - the lochans are to the northwest of Caisteal Liath. On the OS map, Loch nam Breac Mora is the right general area and the L-shaped lochan is in the right place. 

In reply to rif:

No, just going on the picture (not the caption) I'm 99% sure it is Suilven - looking at a map, that distinctive branched lochan is due north of the NW nose of Caisteal Liath

In reply to Dan et al

Yes, you're right, it's Suilven. Clear once I looked at the 1:25k OS. Anyway, at least I bumped the thread.

Going back to the content of the book, has anyone else been inspired by it to go find the Upper Couloir? A long approach for one ice pitch, but a real Alpine feel to the situation, and the pitch itself seemed good value for II when we did it.  

In reply to rif:

I hadn't read the book when I did it but UC was a great day out. I'd be surprised if it's in grade 2 nick often these days.

In reply to Mark Collins:

Yes, the picture is of Caisteal Liath on Suilven, taken by Hamish MacInnes, first published on p.165 of his 'Scottish climbs' Vol. 2 (Constable 1971). The caption doesn't specify whether it's Heatwave, Portcullis Route or Rose Route, but it's very likely it's Heatwave, because he made the first ascent of that with 'M.C. MacInnes' (sister?) in 1968.

In reply to rif:

I climbed it with Ian Duckworth & Pete Bilsborough as a day trip from Stirling. As you say, a long way for one short pitch but the views from the top were good

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Thanks, I wouldn't mind having a go at one of those sometime.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

M.C. MacInnes - Catherine (wife in '68)?

In reply to rif:

Not due to the book, but we did it once in excellent conditions - the normally iffy approach was solid never so we approached via the Lower Couloir. As you say, a long way for just one pitch, but it's all about the day as a whole.

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

I was quite taken aback to find out that Alway a Little Further was 'written by someone nobody's ever heard of'. I think some readers of UKC had heard of Mister Borthwick. At least I hope so! 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/always_a_little_further-11728