UKH

Hi,

I’m relatively new to climbing and I’ve been bouldering probably 10-15 times now. I’m fed up of using hire shoes so decided to buy some of my own. I first bought some La Sportiva’s and they hurt my toes a lot so I just have gotten the wrong size. When trying on shoes I tried on a pair of Scarpa’s that felt a lot more comfortable.

I decided I wanted to buy some Scarpa shoes. After researching their collection I decided to get the new Arpia shoe. 

My street size is 10-10.5 UK. I ordered a pair of 44s. Which should be around 9.5-10 I was told. They arrived today and my left foot is actually a little bigger than my right but on both feet my toes are a little bit bunched up. 

Is this okay? Will I get used to it? Will the shoes stretch a bit? Having never bought climbing shoes properly before and only using terrible hire shoes I don’t know what to do.

The shoes are comfortable - very comfortable. But definitely restricts toe movement and they can’t extend all the way is this normal? The toes are quite bunched

If I decide to go climbing in them is there a way to make them fit a bit better? 

Any help and ideas will be appreciated 

thanks 

Sounds totally normal to me. Toes should sit 'crimped' in climbing shoes meaning the toe is curved over to provide more power at the point of the shoe. 

I have a pair one size down from normal shoes. They’ve stretched maybe half a size. 

Thank you, 

I decided to climb in them today to see how they would turn out. Really comfy but I did have to take off my left shoe a couple of times because my toe was in some pain.

at the end of my sessions nail had a line in it. Do you think this is normal for first time use/breaking in. I think it will take a good few sessions for me to get used to them.

Thanks 

You’ve nothing to lose now you’ve worn them.

Put them in some very hot water, then when they’ve cooled, walk around in them for half an hour. Thai should stretch them a bit.

Would this damage the rubber at all? Or the glue? 

Dunno. Just do warm warm water. The shoes will get wet with sweat at body temp anyway. 

Nice one cheers 

Tbh I'd say these sound like a bit too much of a technical fit for a beginner, and shoes with crimped toes won't provide any benefits at this stage in your climbing (although they will in future). However if you're relatively comfy in them, keep going. If not, buy a cheap shoe (if you like Scarpa they have some cheap models just now such as technoX) and save these for when you're advancing onto small footholds &/or overhanging terrain.

I was contemplating this when buying them. They are very comfy and I think they aren’t too technical but you may be right. 

I think the best think to do will be to trial them out for a few sessions and see how I get on and see if I adapt much. If I struggle I think I will take on your idea and get some cheaper Scarpas. Thanks for the advice!

Keep your toenails closely trimmed.

The OP's a boulderer, so I'd say going for a snug fit with bunched toes is probably appropriate from the start, as long as it's not painful or super-downturned.

It's a good idea to get in the habit of taking off your shoes whenever you're not actually climbing, and at intervals throughout your session, just to give your toes a wiggle!

If you need to take them off every 15 minutes to begin with, I'd call that pretty normal for new bouldering shoes.

For future reference, it's generally a bad idea to buy shoes that you've not tried on -- sizing can vary hugely between different brands and models, and it's all very dependent on how well the particular last of that shoe suits your foot shape.

But if the shoes feel tight all over (rather than having any particular "hot spots" where they're pinching), and if they feel uncomfortable rather than agonizing, that sounds fine.

Sounds like they fit just fine. When you get into climbing it's normal for there to be an adaptation period where your feet get used to the shape of the shoe. If you only had to take them off twice it sounds like the fit is great - I usually take my shoes off between routes or at least once an hour when bouldering. 

Please please don't soak them in hot water or anything like that, they don't need it and it doesn't do the shoe any good. They'll stretch to the shape of your foot within a few sessions and then will be good for several resoles. 

If its painful it's not good. All the people that tell you pain is normal are wearing shoes that don't fit them. When you find the right pair of shoes you'll wonder why you climbed with sore toes for so long.