Gloves for the Matterhorn in August

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Any good/useful suggestions? I'm just not sure how cold it's likely to be. 

Cheers

 Smythson 18 Mar 2019
In reply to Juliankitesurfer:

Albeit I was there in mid July... I did it in Petzl Cordex gloves (the more insulated version) which were fine until the last 100 metres when it got really cold and windy. If I were to do it again I'd take lightweight Montane Prism Mitts for that last section.

In reply to Smythson:

Brilliant, thanks. I'm sure August will be similar in temperature.

 jon 18 Mar 2019
In reply to Juliankitesurfer:

It's normally pretty cold at 4h00 in the morning, but you probably won't be! Don't set off wearing every bit of clothing you've got or you'll just overheat in the first 15 minutes. Watch what the guides are wearing when they leave and do likewise. 

Regarding gloves, you need to be able to climb rock, handle your rope and manipulate karabiners whilst wearing them. A cheapo pair of leather work gloves are great for this. You'll end up wearing them out so spending huge amounts on brand names is silly. Higher where you might be in snow, a warmer pair will be welcome. Remember of course you are mainly on an east face so you'll get any sun that's going. I always carried a cheap pair of mitts too - a really cheap pair of mitts are warmer than any gloves - the moment you separate your fingers they'll be cold no matter how much you paid for your gloves. So the answer is don't skimp on gloves but don't spend much money on them. Oh and get some mitts... did I mention that?

In reply to jon:

Great comprehensive advice. Perfect thanks!

 Dave Cundy 18 Mar 2019
In reply to Juliankitesurfer:

My Black Diamond punishers have been to the top of the Matterhorn. Unfortunately, it wasn't me who was wearing them - I'd lent them to my mate Nikos for an ascent  in July.  He came back and thought the gloves were just fine. Sadly, the stitching is starting to come apart on the right index finger.

 pec 18 Mar 2019
In reply to Juliankitesurfer:

Whatever you'd use for Scottish winter climbing would be fine with some thin liner types gloves in addition perhaps.

I wore fibre pile mittens when I did it 30 years ago because that's all I had.

In reply to Dave Cundy:

Great thanks Dave, I have Punishers which are awesome gloves. 

In reply to pec:

Great thanks.

 Dave Garnett 19 Mar 2019
In reply to jon:

> Regarding gloves, you need to be able to climb rock, handle your rope and manipulate karabiners whilst wearing them. A cheapo pair of leather work gloves are great for this. 

This has made me think.  I've never been keen on gloves but I probably do need something for the Bregaglia this summer.  Do you really climb in leather gloves?

Post edited at 09:13
 McHeath 19 Mar 2019
In reply to Juliankitesurfer:

Small word of warning - gloves have much less friction than your hands would on the thick fixed ropes on the summit section, so be careful when using them there!

In reply to McHeath:

Wise advice, thank you.

 jimtitt 19 Mar 2019
In reply to Juliankitesurfer:

I'd guess Dachstein mitts got half the UKC population up the Matterhorn.

1
 jon 19 Mar 2019
In reply to Dave Garnett:

> This has made me think.  I've never been keen on gloves but I probably do need something for the Bregaglia this summer.  Do you really climb in leather gloves?

On classic routes such as the Hörnli where you're climbing rock at D/VDiff/S standard, yes. Thin soft leather has good grip and protects your hands from abrasion and to some degree from the cold. As I said they'll wear out pretty quick and so it's daft to pay lots of money for brand names. Someone mentioned the fixed ropes on the Hörnli - they are perfect for those - unless of course they're covered in rime or snow, in which case nothing really works!

 Misha 20 Mar 2019
In reply to Dave Cundy:

Sew it up and then cover with seam grip to (try to) retain water resistance. That’s what I do with my Punishers. 

Not been up the Matterhorn yet but BD Punishers are my glove of choice for 4,000ers, combined with a lighter glove for rock climbing sections or when the sun is burning high, as Jon says. 

removed user 20 Mar 2019
In reply to Juliankitesurfer:

I was there at the end of July and I had a pair of leather work gloves but I took them off for 90% of the climbing. I think it was about -5°c on the summit. 

In reply to removed user:

Wow sounds like great conditions, hope I'm that lucky.

Have you done anything similar since you did the Matterhorn?

​​​​​​Cheers, Julian 

removed user 21 Mar 2019
In reply to Juliankitesurfer:

> Wow sounds like great conditions, hope I'm that lucky.

> Have you done anything similar since you did the Matterhorn?

> ​​​​​​Cheers, Julian 

The weather was so bad the day before we almost called it off! Low cloud when we arrived in Zermatt. Trudged up to the Hornli Hut in the pissing rain. Next morning the guardian delayed unlocking the front door by an hour so conditions could improve. Started climbing in the dark of course. The first time I ever saw the Matterhorn I was half way up it! This is me, in the photo with the white helmet: https://www.frostguiding.co.uk/course/50/Climb_the_Matterhorn_(1:1).html

Yeah I've climbed a few other alps since the Matterhorn: Dent Blanche, Grand Combin, Mont Blanc de Cheilon, Allalinhorn. All guided so far but this summer I'm going to climb unguided, after A LOT of crevasse rescue practice.

What about you? What's your plan for August?

In reply to removed user:

Cracking photo, definitely one for the wall and like you said the weather couldn't have been better despite the day before being so crap.

Nice list of Alpine ascents! 

I've booked with a guide I know who lives in the Chamonix area. I'm just hoping for good conditions, my UK trad climbing partner has tried a few times to climb the Matterhorn but the weather has never been on his side, luck of the draw I guess.

Good luck for your Alps climbing this year, and I hope you have better conditions than we had in the Lake District UK and Scotland, this winter was rubbish.

removed user 21 Mar 2019
In reply to Juliankitesurfer:

Cheers! Just goes to show you never know what the weather's going to bring you.

I went out to Switzerland two summers back with the Eiger (Mittellegi) in mind but there was too much snow. One day.

Best of luck for nice conditions this year. Better odds of that in the Alps than UK anyway!

 George.D 26 Mar 2019
In reply to Juliankitesurfer:

Another vote for Petzl Cordex with a back-up pair of warmer gloves in the pack - this is the normal set-up I would use for a "moving fast" summer 4000er

 jon massey 18 Apr 2019
In reply to Juliankitesurfer:

My goodness. And I though gloves were gloves. I did it in a cheapo pair from M&S a few years back. If this is your last worry, then I think you'll be fine with whatever you have mate.


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