Half Rope Advice Sought - Via Ferrata, Green Clim

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 mcneilljamie 01 Mar 2019

It’s finally time to replace my Mammut 50m single climbing rope (purchased c.2006).  It’s had an incredibly gentle life with no significant falls on it, but whilst in El Chorro last week, I noticed some strange coiling occurring after releasing tension on it. 

In any event, this provides me with the opportunity to look at alternative rope options. Given that how I enjoy the mountains today has changed from some years back when I bought the Mammut rope, I wonder whether a two-rope set up would be better for me.

Today, I only lead-climb green routes and I am not bothered about pushing my grade – I just enjoy being outside.  I do a fair few via ferratas and hope to do many more in the future.  When tackling more challenging routes, and conditions allow, I like to throw up a top-rope.

I wonder whether two half-ropes would satisfy my needs, given how I enjoy the hills today.  Therefore, am I correct in thinking the following about half ropes:

That I would be able to use both half-ropes when lead climbing

That I would be able to use one of the two half-ropes for top roping

That I would be able to tie the half-ropes together to form a 100m abseil length for emergency abseiling to extract an injured individual from a via ferrata, should the need arise. 

That I would be able to use one of the two half-ropes as a confidence rope to support individuals on trickier via ferrata sections.

I welcome any recommendations that you may have and would be enormously interested to hear from anyone whose sense of ‘adventure’ is similar to mine!

All the best, and thanks in advance.

Jamie

 Luke90 01 Mar 2019
In reply to mcneilljamie:

For the versatility you're seeking, you might want to look into triple-rated ropes. There are a lot of them about these days.

Top-roping on a half rope won't be ideal, they'll be annoyingly stretchy. I've not used a triple rated rope myself so I don't know whether they're much better in that regard.

Post edited at 22:01
In reply to mcneilljamie:

I can't really imagine carrying 100m of even the skinniest rope on the market whilst on a via-ferrata, even the Beal Opera 8.5mm is 48g/m, so that's about 4.8kg of rope alone in your pack. With that being said two 50m ropes shared between two people wouldn't be too bad, still not great though. As Luke said, they are stretchy, but that also means lower impact forces so pro/con depending on which way you look at it.


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