UKH

Like it says in the title, I'm looking for some replacement bolts and nuts for the head/pick and the grip of my X-Dream tools.

I've changed the picks a couple of times, and switched the handles from ice to dry and back, and the bolts are starting to get a bit rounded.  I'm afraid I'm going to strip them, and want to have a reserve of replacements.

I could not find the bolts/nuts listed on the CAMP website, under "Ice axes" or "Ice axe accessories."

Ideas?  Sources?

Thanks.

You could Try emailing Camp UK and ask for a couple, that's what I would do.

If that fails then try your luck at hardware or tool stores.

I've not seen the X dreams close up but from photo's it looks like quite a specific bolt and it could be hard to source something else that would fit. I have Tech machines and suitable bolts would be pretty easy to source in a decent hardware/tool store. although Grivel supply them with spare picks in anycase.

Probably worth contacting Allcord the UK distributor 

http://www.allcord.co.uk/contact.aspx

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-countersunk-head-socket-screws-stainless...

Think there M8.  check the length

Do NOT use stainless steel for this application. It will bring you new problems with applied load and later removal that you do not need. It is clear from online images that the head bolting for the X-Dream is an alloy steel countersunk socket screw of Grade 10.9 and probably electroplated with either Zn, Ni or both. Commonly "Zn plated and de-embrittled."

If you go to a specialist fastener supplier, these are fairly easy find in a range of standard lengths that are typically 12/16/20/25/30mm. The length of a countersunk screw is measured over the entire length rather than from under the head. Procuring small quantities can be a problem and that's where the online marketplace is quite good. 

You need new nuts too and check for a grade markings on the existing nuts. Electroplated Zn/Ni again. These might be Grade 8 or Grade 10. (Sometimes only a Grade 8 nuts might be used with countersunk socket screws since they cannot be tightened to the same high loads that are used with Grade 10.9 screws and bolts that have a full head.) 

As written in another recent thread, a weak anaerobic adhesive applied to the threads would help to protect from corrosion. A strong anaerobic adhesive might make these screws to difficult to remove later. 

Thanks for the replies.  I have some follow-up points/questions. 

Indeed, as somebody pointed out, I made a mistake, and tightened these bolts with green (very strong) Loctite.  That made it essentially impossible to remove the bolts without stripping the heads.  I'm fairly experienced with tools and hand work.  I tried heating the head of the bolts with a soldering iron, letting solvent soak into the threads, using a high quality Allen wrench, applying pressure gradually, and so on, but I still managed to strip the heads of the bolts.  Like I said, the green Loctite was just too strong.  I've used Loctite with ice tool fixing bolts for years, but it was always red or blue.  I did not realize the green Loctite was so strong.  A simple but consequential mistake

Initially, I hesitated to source the bolts from a hardware store or general distributor--how standard are these types of parts?  Not just the threads, but the diameter and angle or the countersunk head, and so on?  It would obviously be problematic if the shape of the head of the replacement bolt did not match the internal dimensions of the aluminum head of the ice axe.  What are the chances that the kinds of bolts I can easily find online will fit these axes (I just want to ask before I buy the minimum quantity of 100 or so!)

Stainless steel is not advised because of galvanic corrosion with the aluminum parts, correct?

I did try to go through CAMP.  I live in Switzerland.  Here, the CAMP distributor places order to Italy only once a month, so the whole process would take about 4-6 weeks.  CAMP Italy will not ship/sell anything outside Italy because they don't want to infringe on their local distributors, and so on.  I called and wrote to CAMP US several times (using my US contact information) with no success.  So, basically, it's problematic.  It would be so much simpler if you could juts call up the company, or email, and get replacements.  But I guess that's the reality of commerce in our fractious world.  I should try the UK distributor.  I could have them sent to one of my friends/climbing partner in the UK. 

OK, thanks again,

Bruno

I wouldn't sweat it too much, I've been using the same stainless steel countersunk bolts for three years now after I stripped the original.

Getting the stripped bolt out is a real pain, I elected to drill out the nut side.  To do this I carefully drilled right through the bolt from the Allen key side with a small (think 1.5 mm) drill.  This is to create a starting hole in the nut side and allow debris out.  I then carefully drilled from the nut side using gradually bigger drill bits only going the depth of the nut.  When I could see the thread imprint through the side I levered the nut out with a screw driver, was still quite hard to do.  Hope that makes sense. 

Sorry for slight hijack but its seldom that I encounter users with exp with the X-Dreams  (I climb in Scandinavia and Petzl dominates)

Climb on X-Dreams, Third or fourth season, mostly pure ice, max 10-15 days a season. one of my rivets connecting head-shaft is protruding, happened last week and I gently rubber hammered it in again. Now its on its way out again. Loctite it? Whats the verdict?

Im also interested in the bolts for the blade so please write what road you take.

Thanks for keeping this going. 

I'm going to pursue a couple of different paths...keep working to get replacements from CAMP and order some nuts online...if I get a stock of more than I need I would be happy to share them.

To get the bolts out, I fixtured the tool in place on a nice solid/flat base, and used a drill press to drill at very slow speed from the nut side with a metal bit small enough not to damage the nut (the clockwise rotation from the nut side meant that the bolt unscrewed).  It worked, though you have to be sure to fix the tool in such a way that the bolt has room to unscrew. 

About the rivet...hammer gently back in place and fix with dab of all weather/temperature epoxy? 

Or warranty?

OK, thanks again.

If the tools are new I would take them back to the place you bought them. 

If this is not an option - It sounds like the rivet has not expanded correctly so I would line it up and hit it with a hammer till the end flattens slightly ensuring the other end is braced against a suitably solid piece of metal.