What soft-shell?? OMM Alpkit Rab

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 yodadave 19 Feb 2019

I've read the latest UKC bit,

BUT....

theres so many and I'm lost..

mainly i want a breathable windproof with a bit of repellency thats lightweight and will holdup to normal climber abuse.

Currently i use a thin technical Patagucci fleece. I like it a lot but the wind comes through the arms and it is just a bit too warm despite being really thin.

OMM have a nice 4 way stretch fitted shell

Rab have the Torque and the borealis

Alpkit have the resolute which looks great on paper but i've never seen one up close

too many choices, I'm lost! 

 hbeevers 19 Feb 2019
In reply to yodadave:

If it helps, I've got a Rab Borealis and think it's great as a thin, windRESISTANT and water resistant layer. It's not windproof though and certainly doesn't add much warmth at all (which is a plus for me).

The reviews from people on the alpkit website indicate the resolute is quite a slim fit...

The Morphosis from Alpkit is a windproof outer with gridded fleece inner which would be worth looking at.

 steveb2006 19 Feb 2019
In reply to yodadave:

I have Rab Torque which I like and still stays waterproof in a shower / light rain (relatively new). At 520g its a bit heavier than the Borealis - I think thats about 350g. Its a very nice fit, stretchy and Ive done a few rock climbs in it. 

 galpinos 19 Feb 2019
In reply to yodadave:

I live in a ME Squall, from summer rock, to ski touring, to winter climbing...........

https://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/squall-hooded-jacket

No idea how heavy it is as it's always being worn but it feels pretty light and is very robust.

OP yodadave 19 Feb 2019
In reply to galpinos:

how does it sit when not zipped up?

the assymetric zip has always put me off...

OP yodadave 19 Feb 2019
In reply to hbeevers:

i think/hope the slimfit would be fine for me. 

the Morphosis sounds too warm purely based on the use of the word fleece in its description. Maybe not though

Anyone with any OMM experience??

based on not very much i fear it would be amazing but not last all that long as it's proper lightweight stuff

 galpinos 19 Feb 2019
In reply to yodadave:

It flops open? I'm wearing it in my profile pic (unsurprisingly - less eye bleeding colours are available)

I like the asymmetric zip but I guess that's down to personal preference. They do the echo which has a standard zip and the same fabric but I can't comment on the fit and it doesn't have the cavernous helmet swallowing hood of the Squall.

 DaveHK 19 Feb 2019
In reply to yodadave:

What model is the OMM one?

OP yodadave 19 Feb 2019
In reply to DaveHK:

the Kamleika

 DaveHK 19 Feb 2019
In reply to yodadave:

> the Kamleika

Ok, that's not a softshell but a fully waterproof shell jacket. It's an excellent, lightweight waterproof and surprisingly durable but I don't think it would cope with typical climbing abuse for long. Probably less breathable than the others too.

Post edited at 17:06
 Wee Davie 19 Feb 2019
In reply to yodadave:

Having owned one in the past, the OMM Kamleika is definitely a lightweight waterproof shell jacket. It handles nicely because it is stretchy, but it might be a touch 'boil in the bag' if you actually try to climb in it. Not sure it'd be that durable either. 

I'd definitely recommend the Simond softshell. 

https://www.simond.com/mens-mountaineering-light-softshell-blue-id_8386970

Does the same job as any other softshell I've had. At £40 it's unbeatable value. 

Post edited at 17:16
 Run_Ross_Run 19 Feb 2019
In reply to yodadave:

I have both the rabs. The borealis is an awesome bit of kit for the weight and I use it for running with just a thin long-sleeve underneath in cold conditions and it fine. Think of it as a beefier windshirt. I'm not sure it would hold up to much abrasion though . 

The torque is a totally different character. Thicker, stronger fabric, better pockets  helmet compatible hood etc and just feels an all round beefier jacket. It's really good with blocking the wind too. Not too heavy and bulky if you need to stash.

If ur a size small then let me know as mine is up for sale as it no longer fits me since Christmas. Ha. 

Post edited at 17:53
 Gav_92 19 Feb 2019
In reply to galpinos:

> I live in a ME Squall, from summer rock, to ski touring, to winter climbing...........

> No idea how heavy it is as it's always being worn but it feels pretty light and is very robust.

Can also recommend the squall use it almost year round (even when mountain biking), only using the slightly warmer rab sawtooth when it's particularly cold.

For such a lightweight jacket iv always been amazed at how tough the squall is and is showing no signs of wear

 nathan79 19 Feb 2019
In reply to yodadave:

Montane Dyno Stretch is worth a look. The current model meets your needs if Montane fit suits you. Tough, stretchy, can take a breeze and sheds a shower fine.

 Martin Bennett 20 Feb 2019
In reply to yodadave:

For a light, stretchy, comfy and relatively light softshell look at Outdoor Research Ferrosi if you want a hood or Sherpa Kriti if not. And what do you know? I'm trying to reduce  my ridiculously overloaded wardrobe and can offer to sell you either!! Let me know if of interest.

Post edited at 12:41
 plyometrics 20 Feb 2019
In reply to yodadave:

I used to be a massive OMM kamleika fan for both wind and rain protection and have advocated their use on here many times before. 

However, I think their latest version and change to what appears to be a slightly thinner fabric is shocking. I’ve got the smock and it’s ripped at both cuffs after very little wear. They’re also prone to tearing at the lightest snag on a branch etc.

Post edited at 12:48
OP yodadave 22 Feb 2019
In reply to plyometrics:

thanks all for the various advice!

I think I'm left with a few really good choices to look at, cheers.

 Larefia 22 Feb 2019
In reply to yodadave:

I was looking for a breathable windproof with a bit of repellency thats lightweight and will holdup to normal climber abuse as well. I got a BD Alpine start based on Toby Archers review:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/clothing/softshell/black_diamond_alpine_sta...

last years model is cheap direct from BD and there is a hooded version as well.

https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/mens-jackets-shells/alpine-start...

Whilst you might think it is a winter jacket its actually a ultra light windproof that is very breathable.


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