UKH

Hey All! 

I'm looking to upgrade my winter pack for more mountaineering/ice climbing and alpinism style. I've narrowed it down to three packs I'd love to have but can't choose. 

Mountain Equipment Toupilak, Patagonia Ascentionist 40L or the Black Diamond Speed 40L

Anyone used these packs or have any opinions on them (or other considerations for that matter) 

THANKS!! 

I have both the Patagonia and the BD Speed, I love both, but much prefer the Speed, I use it for everything, its an excellent pack that's very strippable also. fit's well, carries loads well, enough features but not too many that it becomes cluttered. I've packed it out for winter overnight adventures and slimmed it down for summer walks.

The Patagonia is an excellent pack in terms of features and looks/function (to some extent) My main gripe it the fit of it, the top section of the back panel seems to sit high and protrude above my shoulders, it feels very square and annoys me, The lid isn't a floating lid either so when packed full it can squash the top pocket making access to its contents a pain. The BD can be adjusted so this doesn't happen. And if the strap comes slightly loose then it can pull through its catchment on the bottom, that annoys me!

The ME pack looks amazing, I'd like one but I won't pay that when the speed is so much cheaper. 

The speed 40 if you want a lid, this one if you don't: https://rockrun.com/products/arcteryx-alpha-fl-45?variant=31462268936

Another plus for the Arc’teryx FL 45

just be aware it isn’t 45l that’s only if you stuff it and extend the top, doesn’t carry so well like this.

I tried the BD Speed 40 but the actual back panel was too long for me and was uncomfortable to carry when stripped down - a very good pack though. I gave it to a taller friend who loves it. I use the arcteryx FL 45.

Arc'teryx are coming out with the new Alpha AR in 35L, looks interesting as a totally strippable alpine pack. 

Anyone tried the Montane Ultra Alpine 38+5? I use it and love it. Pretty much just a heavy duty bin liner with straps on it.

Arcteryx Alpha FL 30 or 45

The Blue Ice Warthog 40 looks strong, light, simple and has useful features for winter and alpine use!

Bergzeit.co.uk have it at half price!

I had one for a brief weekend.

On paper it was a dream: simple (and therefore light), robust and with metal buckles. In the flesh it fit really well and was comfortable. The problems came when actually using it. Firstly, the G-hooks on the compression straps came out of their loops very easily. Tightening was the only solution, and they didn't want to stay tight when anything was underneath them (under the compression straps). Losing an ice axe to these wretches was just waiting to happen. I filed them down to make a more aggressive tooth, which pretty much solved the problem, although they were still prone to losing tension (a Lowe 'LoadLocker' type buckle would be perfect here).

Next, I got it loaded up for an overnight trip in winter, with perhaps 12-15 kg inside (not an outrageous load for a climbing pack). Picking it up by one of its shoulder straps, half of the stitches that attach the strap to the body came undone. I gave it a third chance only to find by the end of the day that some of the stitches in the pleating at the base of the back panel were coming ondone, this through no particular stressing.

The fabrics and other materials themselves were great, but the stitching needed to be much stronger, and important design issues they should have nailed, weren't nailed (the strap system). So I sent it back, and went for a value offering, the Lowe Alpine Alpine Ascent, which is light enough, super tough, and well-made.

I hope you get along well with yours, but avoid doing whatever it was that I did wrong.

I have the old ascentionist and borrowed a Tupilak and would take the Tupilak in preference in a second. Better carry, buckles, lid. 

Not tried the Speed. Alpha 45L gets good reviews but is a 33L sac over packable to 45L. It’s smaller than the others. 

I've one of these. I found one issue that may be user error, anyone know how do you keep it closed when its not full, the buckle doesn't have enough tension to keep it attached.

I think that is the sole weakness to the Warthog - which is otherwise excellent.

The origin of buckle strap on the main compartment needs to be six inches lower. All is well when it is full (and arguably you are better off opting for a smaller pack if only half full) but the tendency to unbuckle is irksome. 

B

Are you using the buckle strap that's on the top of the ice axe sleeve? Works a treat for me if only half full. You can then obviously resort to the upper strap when you're carrying more.

Not the answer you're looking for, but stuff the lid inside the main compartment and thing cinch-strap the shite out of it...

Works like a charm on the original 2something version. Albeit not perfect.

Thanks, that's the conclusion I've been coming to. Double checked I'd not been stupid and definitely only one attachment point for the strap.

My warthog doesn't have a lower fastener, I have put a loop of nylon tape through the ice axe sleeve to make a lower fastener.

If you look at Alpine trek website they have pictures of blue ice warthog some with lower fastener and other's without.

Is there a quality control issue with the lower fastener?

Having had an OMM Villain a while back, I will never again be buying  another mountain pack with a fixed lid. Total pain in the ass. Things in top pocket; any use whatsoever of the extension sleeve: pick one.

Nope, different year/version of the product... there are atleast 3 revisions (on both sizes).

As HeMa says there are obviously different versions. I take that as Blue Ice listening to feedback, although on this occasion I'd have thought it would have been obvious from the start...

I use a BD Speed 22 in winter, which I really like. Crampons mount nicely on the back. I avoided the Speed models with a zip lid as the rope loop is positioned such that the rope sits right behind the neck and makes it difficult to look up.

I've also got a Blue Ice Warthog 38l which I like. Again packs really well. Managed to fit bivi gear in it last weekend as well as half a mixed rack and ropes. I like the lid helmet holder. The latest Warthog model looks even better as the crampons will mount better on the outside. The only thing I don't like is the lid fastening hook, which can unhook when the pack is largely empty because is then can't be fastened tight enough  

One solution could be picking up a Lowe Alpine Loadlocker buckle, which has an extra spike that keeps it locked even without tension. You might have to sew it on though, and it may not be wide enough.

Having just ordered one of the old ones at a steal price, how will crampons fit better on the outside of the new Warthog? The only difference I can see is an extra buckle attachment point. 

Actually, I'm not sure what it was that I saw in a shop last week actually. Looked just like a Warthog, in red, with straps to mount crampons in the middle. Thought it was  Blue Ice but looks like I might be mistaken based on the website.

Ah, that’ll be the Red Ice version then!