Expedition climbing rucksack

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 Jonny 24 Jan 2019

My Lowe Alpine rucksack has finally packed it in after 15 years of service and I'm after a replacement. It will be used for alpine-style climbing in the greater ranges, so a 70L-ish volume would be about right.

I'd be thrilled if the new bag could last another 10 to 15 years, but also if it didn't weigh the 3 kg that my Lowe bag weighs. It would be nice if it could be stripped down for summitting, although given the tiny proportion of total time those days represent, a spare construction in its 'complete' state is more important. Nice extras would be ice tool attachments, gear loops, a lid pocket, front mesh or (riggable) elastic cords... and that's about it.

Bags I've had in mind are the Berghaus Expedition Light 80, Mountain Hardwear South Col 70, Lowe Alpine Metanoia 65:80, Aiguille Verte 65+15, Millet Prolighter 60+20 and Black Diamond Mission 75, although I may well be overlooking others. Offerings from Crux (AK70), and CiloGear and Hyperlite Mountain Gear in the States look great, but are out of my budget unless you're collectively convinced that they're really leaps and bounds beyond the others.

Any opinions would be welcome!

 Rick Graham 24 Jan 2019
In reply to Jonny:

Crux and a separate summit bag, blue ice dragonfly 18?

2
 GarethSL 24 Jan 2019
In reply to Jonny:

Hunt around for a Naos.

OP Jonny 24 Jan 2019
In reply to Rick Graham:

The Crux does look fantastic, but it's just a bit too much money! As for taking a separate summit bag, I'm kind of into traverses and round routes, so I'm not sure that kind of thing would be worth carrying around (featherweight as it may be).

 Rick Graham 24 Jan 2019
In reply to Jonny:

I am sure the crux is a tad over £300 for good reason. Probably (only) £100 over the cost of the other options.

Could be well spent if going alpine style in greater ranges.

I got a blue ice for £45 less discount recently.

1
 markk 24 Jan 2019
In reply to Jonny:

I've been very happy with my Lowe Alpine Metanoia.

Post edited at 16:27
 Myfyr Tomos 24 Jan 2019
In reply to Jonny:

Have a look at Aiguille Alpine.  Long lasting, bombproof and can be tweeked to your spec.

OP Jonny 25 Jan 2019
In reply to markk:

Good to hear! I'd be very happy to go with on of their packs again.

Anyone with experience with either the Berghaus or MH sack?

 kp1 25 Jan 2019
In reply to Jonny:

I have the older version of the South Col and it’s easily the worst pack I’ve ever bought. Mountain Hardwear replaced it for me after it began to disintegrate with two weeks minimal use. It’s replacement which wasn’t subjected to anything more strenuous than the odd camping trip suffered the same fate after about 15 days use. It’s unusable now as the  stitching keeps ripping at all the seams. Mountain Hardwear wouldn’t stand over it. Their customer service is absolutely abysmal. 

I’ve gone back to using my 22 year old Lowe Alpine Cerre Torre which is still in great shape despite years of heavy use. It might weigh a bit more but it compensates with comfort and reliability.

OP Jonny 25 Jan 2019
In reply to kp1:

Thanks for the heads-up re the MH pack. That's just the kind of mess I'd be keen to avoid.  Maybe things have changed in the new iteration, but overcoming shoddy workmanship takes more than a redesign, I would think.

My romantic half wants to keep going with my Lowe Appalachian. It's only a buckle or two (one of the sewn-in ones, of course, although that could be repaired) and the waterproof liner that are really shot after all. On the other hand I can sense the aluminium frame trying to poke its way through its upper retainer, which would be a pain to have fail on me at some important time. Still, it's taken a hell of a beating and has seen a lot of the world. It can die a regret-free man if indeed its time has come.

 

Thanks Jason for the tip-off. Looks Crux-esque for a much better price. Have you used it yourself?

Post edited at 19:45
 Smythson 27 Jan 2019
In reply to Jonny:

Osprey Atmos 65, used mine for a couple of seasons. It's incredibly light and comfortable. The only downside is that, as with everything lightweight, I doubt it'll last 15 years like your last bag. 

 

Albeit I don't have their largest bags my blue ice 40 has worn incredibly well over the last few years and can be stripped right down if desired. Even with everything on it's simplicity makes it light in comparison to many similar bags. 

Good luck on your search, 

S

 

 ben b 27 Jan 2019
In reply to Jonny:

I have heard nothing but bad stories about the South Col, which sounds like a complete dog. I tried one on once (in Canada) and happily it didn't fit me well, so dodged that bullet! I ended up with a huge Arcteryx which is great for comfy backpacking, but definitely not an expedition climbing pack.

The X-Pod expedition pack sadly was no longer available. Aiguille would be the best alternative for that kind of pack and will stand by there products in a way many of the bigger manufacturers only say they will....

If you really want a pack that will survive a couple of decades and don't mind the extra weight, I can recommend https://www.cactusoutdoor.co.nz/packs-bags/alpine-packs/deepwinter.html - the bonus being an effective lifetime guarantee and high degree of repairability. However you would need to be in Wellington or Christchurch to try one on. Heavier than pure expedition packs at 2.4kg but immensely well made.

Good luck

b

 ben b 27 Jan 2019
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Last year's 70l model going cheep...

https://www.macpac.co.nz/clearance/equipment/ascent-70l-pack/114069-CLEARAN...

b

 spenser 27 Jan 2019
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

For what it's worth I've got a smaller Macpac bag with the same ice axe loop on it, after less than 10 days of carrying axes it has ripped off at the top. It's an easy repair to reinforce it but quite annoying to need to.

In reply to Jonny:

That Berghaus Expedition 80 has no back system and carries terribly. I’ve been very happy with my Lowe Alpine Metanoia I replaced it with. =o)

OP Jonny 29 Jan 2019
In reply to Jonny:

Thanks everyone for your kind help.

I went with the Lowe Alpine Metanoia in the end. The MacPac sack looks good, but since it was a toss-up my experience with Lowe's stuff over the last 15 years tipped the scales for their new bag. It's not the lightest, nor the most hardwearing (at least with Aiguille bags on the market), but looks like it strikes a good balance between the two (from what I've read). I like that it has (four!) gear loops to compensate for the ones my skimpy harness doesn't have, and that bits can be removed (although I imagine I'll most often use it as-is). Oh, and I admire Jeff Lowe and loved the film about the rucksack's namesake route. Has to count for something!

In general, it's interesting that materials advances haven't particularly revolutionised the rucksack world as they have everywhere else (the Crux seems to be much as it was 15 years ago). The freaky Dyneema bags might give the lie to this statement, but they're so outrageously expensive it barely counts (and not good in the face of abrasion, it seems). I kind of like this fact - there's no pressure to be continuously upgrading (even though we 'suffer' in our old, heavy, ways). I'm too young to be a luddite though!

Post edited at 17:14

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