UKH

Hi all

Just started researching options for climbing and scrambling in Wadi Rum later this year and am looking for any pointerssuggestions.

There will be two of us, probably won't have the time to get properly stuck in but I can't pass by without visiting. 

Thanks!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/wadi_rum_-_a_desert_sandst...

What sort of difficulty are you looking for? The article linked above should give some pointers for reliable relatively technical climbs which you can just abseil back down. However, for many the main attraction of Rum area quite rightly the extraordinary scrambly "Bedouin" routes which come with all degrees of commitment. A west to east traverse of Jebel Rum is a world class objective of its type. 

Realistically we'll be keeping it simple. Probably won't be doing anything too technically difficult but I'm keen to try and get a feel for the place. Looking at about three days.

Climbing wasn't the main objective of the trip but we've got more time than we know what to do with so here we are.

Cheers! Will have a read.

To get a feel for the place, you probably couldn't do better than going through the amazing Rabakhat canyon on your first day. Then maybe a trip to Barrah canyon to do Merlin's wand if you want some conventional climbing and can do E1 (alternatively the short routes above the village on the east face of Jebel Rum give good choice, but don't have the advantage of getting you away into the desert). Hammad's route on Jebel Rum gives a long and fantastic day out (the traverse might be a bit ambitious unless in a short trip given the route finding issues!). An easier alternative which sees more of the desert might be to climb Jebel Burdah via the Bridge. You should definitely get the guidebook:

https://www.cicerone.co.uk/treks-and-climbs-in-wadi-rum-jordan

second the above trip through Rakabat canyon, but allow plenty of time for route finding and "really!?" moments, as there are no markers and the guide book maps limited. 

Some of the best and more accessible climbs I've done that keep you away from rum village so you get the real experience are "crack in the back" and "l'apreitif".  Some good info now going up on the thecrag

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/jordan/wadi-rum/area/1981714764

The bedouin routes are amazing but if you onsite the walk in your doing good.  

A scramble up Kazali is accessible and doable in a few hours. 

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/jordan/wadi-rum/area/779091102/routes 

If you need a guide I have a number. 

Thanks, that's brilliant! I'll pick up a guide and do some more research but you've both given me a good place to start .

Cheers! 

Our first route was Black Magic. Short approach and abseil descent means it's uncomplicated for a short trip. About Hard VS we thought. Mind you this was 20 years ago - things might have changed? L'Aperitif also provided a decent shorter day. Black Beauty is - well - a beauty. Getting out into the desert beyond the village is great but with only 3 days might be stretching the logistics a bit? Have a great trip.

Good advice from all the other contributors. Three days may be a bit on the brief side: the area is big and complex and takes a bit of getting used to, as do the logistics. But it'd be hard to go there and not have a good time, whether it's the people, the scenery, or the routes.

If I were to offer one definite suggestion to get a proper feel for the place, it'd be to do a Bedouin route: that'd give you a real feel for the local culture, and put you in a relationship of mutual understanding with the wonderful and wonderfully hospitable inhabitants of this wonderful area.

I can't find the climb black beauty, do you have any more info on it ? 

I think he means The Beauty (TD) which I rated as one of the best climbs we did on our trip/ever done (*****). It has brilliant climbing, rock and vistas and is achievable in a day from the village with no transport. That said the approach is fairly adventurous and not your average walk but is nearly worth 3*s by itself. The route is usually now done by the direct way avoiding a scrappy chimney at one point (as described in the guide we used) and the last pitch which can be missed out is extremely bold laybacking without a very large cam! (our old size 5 friend wouldn't really fit so it ended up being mainly a solo!)

For a guidebook we took the Tony Howard guide and a newer selective guide "Rock around the world" which covers around 30 of the best hit list routes in the rum area: https://www.cordee.co.uk/Rock-Around-the-World-det-0-0-0-15239.html?search=... this we used more or lest exclusively as we found its modern style photo typos, approach directions and maps to be much clearer for a first time visitor with only a limited time to spare.

I would also recommend the short and accessible multipitch Flight of Fancy (6b) (the short version) with a short 20min simple approach from the village. The corner pitch is out of this world!! (****/*)

personally though i wouldn't bother with Black Magic (D+) whilst it is in the same amazing landscape the climb is only really worth **/* as the lower pitches are scrappy with plenty of loose rock on the traverse and only a couple of stand out pitches. It is again a simple walk from the village.

I also would really recommend a night out under the magical stars in Barrah canyon to do Merlin's Wand (6a+) one of the pure best lines we climbed in rum though the climbing itself isn't as good at the routes above. For something more challenging (also at Barrah) with brilliant climbing The Star of Abu Judaidah (ED1) would come highly recommended.

Sorry, it's "The Beauty" and one of the most popular climbs in the region, with good cause. My pal led the crux layback with his biggest gear being a No 4 friend - so no protection! I'd have had kittens!

Forgot to mention "Pillar of Wisdom" in my original note. Another that's handy for the village for a short trip but start early - it's a long and complex descent.