UKH

Long time lurker, but first time posting here on UKC, looking for some advice on getting a pair of scrambling boots. 

Currently I own a pair of La Sportiva TX4 and Nepal Extremes. I mostly use the TX4 for most of my mountain/cragging activities and the Nepals for winter or in very poor weather. I'm mainly a climber but have started doing more big mountain walks and scrambles, with the aim to do more in Scotland (multi day bothy/camping trip in Torridon for Easter planned). 

When dry I'll normally go for the TX4, but if it's very wet I'll generally opt for the Nepals, which are ok comfort wise but are quite heavy and I really dislike scrambling in them. Although they edge well, I generally find them insecure and miss the smearing ability.This may be due to scrambling in them in predominately wet weather, but I also didn't get of with them in the Alps that well.  This has lead me to think an in between boot may be useful, such as a "booty" approach shoe or a B1/2 boot. 

A couple of options I've thought of so far below. I've got on well with La Sportiva boots before so focused on them but open to ideas although don't get on with Scarpa boots unfortunately.

Boulder X GTX mids or TX4 GTX mids - Will probably enjoy scrambling with the most but found they aren't the best when in wet grass/mud, especially as the sole starts to wear. Also limitation when using a crampon (for glacier travel, not actual climbing of course). 

Trango Trek GTX - Look good for walking, mixed reviews on its scrambling from online reviews.Will i miss not having a sticky rubber on the sole? 

Trango Towers - Would take my current crampons by the looks as its B2 boot, and has sticky rubber. However the most expensive by some margin. Additionally, I'm not sure if i'll find them too stiff for scrambling, and so have a similar problem to the Nepals in that respect.  

I would intend to use the boots for walking/ scrambling in wet conditions in autumn through to spring, with the option to also use on rocky alpine climbs with possible glacier approaches 

If anyone has any experience with any of these or have any suggestions I'd love to hear! Cheers

 

  

In reply to AlistairBerridge:

Scarpa Rebel Pro. If you can get the Ultras then even better.

 

Edge great and feel flexible but are very sturdy. Only thing is that if you stay still too long in cold conditions, your feet might get chilly, but if you have some good socks on you should be alright. Bloody comfy that is for sure, even with crampons bound tight. Plus, the ultras have a built in gaiter. Winner winner.

As you mention you don't get on with scarpa, I should add Aku make some fine, fine boots.

 

P.s. Cool name

In reply to AlistairBerridge:

I concur with Ally-McCoy, the Rebel Pro are great for scrambling and even dry-tooling but they are not very warm. But be careful with Scarpa's sizing scheme which appears to be all over the map. My size 43 feet need size 43, 44 and 45 for the Zen's, Rebel Pro's and Phantom 6000's respectively...

In reply to AlistairBerridge:

If you are are a climber - and your profile says you climb up to E1 + IV in winter you should be able to manage any scrambling in pretty much any sort of footwear.  

I'd certainly never really contemplate scrambling on rock outside winter in Nepals.

In reply to AlistairBerridge:  I'm surprised to see Rebel Ultras recommended - they're an admittedly light full on, but very stiff, B3 boot , so a bit clunky and they won't last long on granite.  I save mine for winter and alpinism, for summer scrambling I use a pair of Salomon x-alp carbons and can't recommend them enough.  I'd like to try Ribelles, but can't justify it till the x-alps wear out, which is not happening soon.  The x-alps are like a stiffened up trail running shoe, the stiffness helping with technical scrambling, climbing

 

In reply to wbo:

Also surprised to see the Rebel Ultra suggested (not least as the OP says Scarpa doesn’t fit them!)

My Ultras were so hard to get hold off, and expensive, that they’ll be used for nothing but light, technical alpine, and carefully husbanded.  From the Scarpa range I’d much sooner recommend one of the Zodiac iterations for scrambling, just as light, more comfortable, and substantially cheaper.

 

In reply to AlistairBerridge:

I've bought Scarpa Rebel Lite's for much the same purpose this summer. Only had one weekend in them so far, in the Lakes (inc. Jack's Rake on Pavey Ark) but they seem ideal.

In reply to AlistairBerridge:

I find the Aku range is brilliant, perhaps the best I've used in 35 years of scrambling, though the models differ in the amount of ankle support so some while good for scrambling are less good when running down steep heathery hillsides

Thanks for the suggestions so far all, I'll definitely investigate them a bit further.

 

In reply to AlistairBerridge:

As a scrambling/walking boot I use the SalomonX Alp MTN GTX : light, good longitudinal flexibilty but with sideways rigidity near the toe and claimed to be crampon compatible (I've not tried this).

For dry conditions I've found the Sportiva Ganda Guide good (no gtx, a sort of cross between light boot and approach shoe). However you obviously prefer something more smeary.
 

In reply to AlistairBerridge:

Every trip to the mountains for me is based around scrambling and I switch between a pair of Five Ten Guide Tennies and Scarpa Rebel Lites depending on the route. Surprised to see the Rebel Pros and Ultras recommended, making life unduly hard for yourselves and summer scrambling must be a sweaty affair too? I wouldn't want to walk 10 miles in those either (my standard scramble/walk distance).

The Guide Tennies are great for rock routes e.g. The Chasm Face on Glyder Fach, with your TX4s being a direct substitute. Crap on wet grass though so I'll eventually replace them with the Scarpa Mescalito Mid GTX which look perfect for UK scrambling.

I use the Rebels for routes that don't rely on smearing and have bog trotting or water features e.g. Idwal Staircase, Bryant's Gully. I looked at the Salewa Crow and Rapace boots but they weren't stocked anywhere locally – but any B1 boot with a rear bail and "climbing zone" on the sole will be up to the task. Mad About Mountains still stock the Trango S and they're only £149!

A low bulk B1+ with a flexible upper would be my suggestion, cheers.

P.S. I solo climb winter II/III in my Rebel Lites, the Trango S would do likewise with aplomb. I say "solo" because they're not insulated, best for fast and light days

In reply to oldie:

I've had just come across these, they look a really good option for me to try on

In reply to tagscuderia:

I'd seen the Tango S on Mad About Mountains already, unfortunately not in my size otherwise I think I may have brought them already! 

In reply to AlistairBerridge:

Also worth a look are the Mammut Kentos, really nice boot; B1+ but with Mammut's 'Motion Control' they walk well and it's that winning combo of stiff sole with flexible uppers. Full rubber rand which is essential if scrambling in Snowdonia!

I had to return mine because the toe box was too low profile for my hobbit feet

P.S. one comment regards Salomon, a mate had a pair and he hated their Contragrip – he said that they were crap on both grass and rock. I've read that too in reviews/comparisons but have never worn Salomon so... pinch of salt.

In reply to tagscuderia: .the sole on x-alps is as good as anything else - the contraction on speedcross is indeed rubbish on rock and they don't scramble well at all

 

In reply to AlistairBerridge:

I have a pair of lowa laurin pro gtx, use them for walking and scrambling. Find them solid but comfortable to use all day and they are confidence inspiring in their grip and ability to hold smallish holds.

 

If they suit your foot then I'd say go for them, don't have any experience of me sportiva boots so can't comment.

In reply to AlistairBerridge:

I’ve got a pair of La Sportiva Trango S EVO boots which are perfect for all grades of scrambling and even easy climbs (Diff). Comfy for big walk-ins too. Not sure if they still sell them but companies like Rock and Run may still have a few pairs in your size if you’re lucky.