Advice on first pair of crampons

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rares 19 Dec 2018

Cheers guys,

I am in the market for my first pair of crampons that I want to use for both mountaineering and occasional ice climbing. After my searches and a couple discussions with some people I decided to get a technical pair that I can switch between mono and dual point and came up with the following 3: Petzl Lynx, Singing Rock Lucifer II or Grivel G14

I really like Petzl lynx as well as Grivel G14, however they are definitely over my budget expensive. The next best thing that I found is Singing Rock Lucifer II. Do you know anything about these? Are they good? Where I live there is a 50 euro difference between these and the Petzl and Grivel.

Do you think I should invest more and get the Petzl or Grivel or go with the Singing Rock?

Thanks in advance for your help.

1
 Billhook 19 Dec 2018
In reply to rares:

You won't need mono points for the 'occasional ice climb'  

In any case its quite possible to climb at IV or more with dual points.

I'd just go to your nearest shop.

 Jellington 19 Dec 2018
In reply to rares:

If you only ice climbing occasionally then I'd go for something allround like the Grivel G12 or the Petzl Sarken. Will serve you well for general mountaineering and some steep ice. 

But if you're sure you want more of a technical pair: I've heard good stories about the Lynx and G14, don't know about the Lucifer II but I do know that in terms of quality Singing Rock is fine. If you're on a budget maybe also look at Simond's technical crampons: 

https://www.simond.com/vampire-speed-crampons-id_8320462

Cheers, 

Jelle 

 Andrew Lodge 19 Dec 2018
In reply to rares:

I've climbed up to V in my G12's, I suspect others have climbed much harder. It's certainly not the crampons that stops me climbing harder.

They are a bit lighter than the G14's and probably make a better mountaineering crampon.

Some interesting stuff on Andy Kirkpatricks website about which crampons to choose, certainly worth a read before you buy.

 olddirtydoggy 19 Dec 2018
In reply to rares:

I use Petzl Lynx as they are great all rounders. The link above to the Simond set don't look all that different. One thing I'd check is how easy it is to get replacement front points.

 TobyA 20 Dec 2018
In reply to rares:

Get some general 12 point crampons, something like https://www.simond.com/makalu-hybrid-crampons-id_8091164 will be absolutely fine. Then spend the 80 quid you save on petrol going to the mountains to use them.

 asteclaru 20 Dec 2018
In reply to rares:

I've just bought a pair of G14s for ice climbing because I wanted something with vertical front points. I already have a pair of G12s for winter walking/general mountaineering.

Yes, people keep on saying that 'insert name of famous climber that has been climbing ice for decades' has climbed 'insert astronomical climbing grade' wearing blunt crampons from 20 years ago and using alpenstocks for ice tools, but, as a beginner, I have neither their experience or climbing skills, so I want to get every single advantage I can (and a big part of this, I think, is sharp, dedicated ice climbing tools)

I want to focus on the climbing, not have to kick my crampons in unnecessarily, always wondering whether they are in or not. 

Post edited at 08:59
 Bezz 20 Dec 2018
In reply to rares:

I've never used Singing Rock crampons but do have G14s & used them on everything from Sottish II to VI, Alpine north faces and hard winter ice in Italy / France - they were the only crampons I owned for years. I've never used them as mono points and never felt the need to - simply having sharp front points makes a bigger difference than dual vs mono IMO. Being able to change from dual to mono adds weight to the crampon which may not be beneficial. 

Singing Rock are a reputable outfit (as are Simond and I've heard good things about their Vampire Speed crampons) so either should be good. 

In short, I'd recommend buying a fixed dual, forged front point crampon like Petzl Sarken if you want 1 pair for all activities but I'm sure the Singing Rock Lucifer II would be fine if they are the most economical option for you or their standard 12 point crampon (Fakir II) would work really well and be cheaper / lighter. 

Happy shopping! 

 

 

 TobyA 20 Dec 2018
In reply to Bezz:

>  I've never used them as mono points and never felt the need to - simply having sharp front points makes a bigger difference than dual vs mono IMO.

Not meaning to be rude, but if you've never tried monos, how would you know?

After going backwards and forwards on monos, I've come to the conclusion that conditions (particularly temperature) make the big difference on ice. On mixed, at least up to my level - I've still not decided which I think is better!

 Bezz 20 Dec 2018
In reply to TobyA:

Ha ha, fair point - no worries Toby - to avoid a confusing post I didn't mention that I have 3 pairs of crampons. Grivel Air Tech for winter walking and low grade climbing, G14's (in dual point mode) for general mountaineering mid grade climbing (III - V / VI)  plus Petzl Darts for Ice climbing / mixed.

The Darts are awesome and IMO the best on pure ice - this may be due to having one point or may be because they are so light as they have fewer parts & less material than G14s.  But I find they are not good for general mountaineering due to balling up so easily (still don't understand why Petzl don't make an anti balling pate for the dart and my attempts to make some have not performed well...). 

I'd recommend Darts for pure ice but the OP wants general crampons and I don't really think it's beneficial to have crampons that can adapt from 2 points to 1 front point due to the extra weight and faff. In the interests of full disclosure I have never tried Dartwins so can't confirm if crampon weight or mono point vs dual offers the biggest benefit...also I've found some routes / moves on mixed favour twin points (more stable) whilst others might favour monos (can fit in smaller cracks etc) 

Hope that clarifies! 

 

 

Post edited at 14:29
Deadeye 21 Dec 2018
In reply to rares:

Another vote for g12s

 Duncan Beard 28 Dec 2018
In reply to rares:

I bought Climbing Technology Nuptse C2s & I've been really happy with them. Like G12s but much cheaper. I bought some more serious DMM Gladiators 2nd hand but there doesn't seem to be a huge advantage in them on up to GrIII Scottish. They work well on easy routes in the Alps and I can take them on & off quite quickly.


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