Winter ridge beta needed

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 tehmarks 10 Dec 2018

A couple of quick winter ridge questions (Google is failing me):

  • What is the East Ridge of Carn Mor Dearg like? The UKC logbook suggests an unconfirmed I in winter, but I can't find much information at all. Is it a sensible way up onto Carn Mor Dearg and onwards up the CMD Arete from Steall Meadows with a winter relative beginner (but competent rock climber) in tow, or should I plan on approaching up the north ridge of Carn Beag Dearg?
  • What's School House Ridge on Sgorr Bahn like? Same partner. A cursory Google suggests everything from hard walk up to grade II.
 rif 10 Dec 2018
In reply to tehmarks:

East ridge of Carn Mor Dearg is a walk, but a fine way onto the arete and the Ben. If you mean E ridge of Carn Dearg Meadhonach, which is the next spur to the north so involves a bit of descent if coming from Steall, it's variously described as easy II or hard I.  See for example:  http://www.scottishwinterroutes.com/meadhonach.htm   The same site has a description of the Ballahulish horseshie via Schoolhouse ridge, which it grades as I.

Hope this helps

 

OP tehmarks 10 Dec 2018
In reply to rif:

Very helpful, thank you! Despite using that site extensively for planning (it's a fantastic resource, isn't it?) I somehow misidentified the mentioned ridge for the NNE ridge on the map, and thus didn't realise it was talking about the School House ridge!

Definitey talking about the east ridge of Carn Mor Dearg though. The map and aerial view suggested it might have some rock steps or similar difficulties, and, well, forewarned is forearmed! It sounds like the winning approach to the CMD arete from that side at any rate. I'm tentatively planning on camping in Steall Meadows for a couple of days if the forecast is good and taking a look at the CMD arete, a traverse of 'the Aonachs' and perhaps something on the North Face of the Ben if conditions are good.


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