Meltdown (Yosemite) repeated

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 JLS 12 Nov 2018
In reply to Liam Ingram:

Cool. I thought this might become the US's version of Violent New Bread. 

In reply to Liam Ingram:

So has anyone suggested the grade is correct/needs changing?

 danm 12 Nov 2018
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

I think there is some feeling it may have been undergraded if anything. The consensus seems to be that on reflection, Beth's ascent was one of the great landmarks in climbing history. 

 Neil Foster Global Crag Moderator 12 Nov 2018
In reply to JLS:

> Cool. I thought this might become the US's version of Violent New Bread. 

Is that the sort used in a bun fight....?

 Lord_ash2000 12 Nov 2018
In reply to Liam Ingram:

FMA (first male accent)

Looked pretty nails at the time and seem to recall a lot of the difficulties being finger size dependent so understandably probably feels even harder for people with normal sized hands.  

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 Knut R. 12 Nov 2018
In reply to Liam Ingram:

The first repeat of a possible contender for "hardest single pitch of trad in the world"? Yeah, I'd agree with you that it seems like news.

Remarkable ascent by Rodden, and remarkable repeat by Traversi.

Post edited at 18:50
 slab_happy 12 Nov 2018
In reply to Lord_ash2000:

> Looked pretty nails at the time and seem to recall a lot of the difficulties being finger size dependent

Traversi did an Enormocast interview while he was working on it, and said he thinks it's not as hand-size-dependent as people imagine; the crack's so thin that much of the time no-one's fingers are going to fit inside it anyway and it's much more about using the edges for weird tenuous side-pulls.

 Strife 12 Nov 2018
In reply to Liam Ingram:

I was waiting for this to appear as a news article on the main page. What is potentially the world's hardest trad pitch getting a second ascent after more than 10 years since the FA seems like something worth reporting on; perhaps UKC has something in the works.

 slab_happy 13 Nov 2018
In reply to Strife:

> perhaps UKC has something in the works.

I hope so!

If we're putting in requests, I'd love to see something on the first repeat of Century Crack, too.

 

In reply to Lord_ash2000:

"normal" What size is that?

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