climbing shoe resoles

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Hi all,

I own a pair of Shaman 2's that i've used and abused indoor and outdoor all over the country over the past 6-8 months and they have now developed a hole in the toe.

I emailed Cheshire Shoe repairs and they quoted me £42 for a toe and rand replacement which I thought seemed quite reasonable. However, when I downloaded the order form I noticed they only had Five Ten Stealth or Vibram rubber available for resoles and obviously Evolv use Trax.

I was essentially wondering if any of you had ever had shoes resoled with a different rubber to what they are made of and how much of a difference it makes?

Cheers,

Harry

 gethin_allen 03 Nov 2018
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

I've resoled red chili shoes with 5.10 rubber and I've resoled xs grip with X's or edge and they all worked fine. From my limited experience with trax rubber I'd say that either stealth of vibram is better than trax.

In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

Hi Harry 

 

I have had quite a few shoes resoled with other brand rubber for one reason or another, just waiting for a set of scarpa boosters coming back with 5:10 rubber from http://www.shoedoc.eu/contact.htm (great place for a resole)

as for difference if it is good person you have resoling your boots it shouldn't make that much difference

cheers Rob

 

 dilatory 03 Nov 2018
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

I'd avoid Cheshire resoles. They've done a terrible job on shoes I've sent them in the past and not terribly pleasant to deal with. Stick to Llanberis resoles and just go with vibram. 

2
 scope 03 Nov 2018
In reply to dilatory:

Contrastingly, I've found their resoles to be good, and found them pleasant to deal with. The only issue I had was how long it took to get the shoes back.

 HB1 03 Nov 2018
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

The trouble with Cheshire Shoe Repairs (and I've used them for  years) is that they ignore any existing toe profile and the shoes come back rounded at the front - not good! Take the advice above and send either to Tarquin in Llanberis (not used him -doesn't stock 5.10, but good reports) or George in Greece ( he sends back a shoe exactly as the manufacturer intended - and a lot cheaper than CSR - what a difference - no comparison!)

In reply to gethin_allen:

Cheers man, I've heard other rubbers are better and that confirms it, thanks alot

In reply to scope:

Cheers for the reply man, out of interest how long did it take for you to get them back?

In reply to dilatory:

I'll have a look into them, cheers man

In reply to HB1:

I've just sent an email off to George and I'm awaiting a reply - I was wondering how much he charges/what the postage is along with the return time?

 gravy 03 Nov 2018

Last shoes I had done by Cheshire I never used again - a great big brick of rubber by the toes, total loss of shape and zero sensitivity turned my shoes into something like a pair of hire shoes.  Llanberis resoles made a much, much better job.

 slab_happy 04 Nov 2018
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

Seconding (thirding? fourthing?) the good reviews for Llanberis Resoles.

 Climber_Bill 04 Nov 2018
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

> I was wondering how much he charges/what the postage is along with the return time?

I sent 3 pairs of shoes (I paid for outbound postage) and the costs were as below;

Miura 1 - 27€
Miura 2 - 27€
Genius - 30€
Shipping No Charge.

Returned in less than 10 days.

Hope that is useful.

TJB.

 Wayne S 04 Nov 2018
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

Hi,  Must have had 6 pairs of shoes resoled at Feet First in Chesterfield over the years.  Never unhappy with the results.  Have typically had 5.10 rubber fitted to my La Sportiva’s with no issues, rubber is fractionally softer so smears better but the downside is the edge goes more quickly.  The same compromise as new shoe rubber really.  

Wayne

In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

A thumbs up for George in Greece. He has resoled five pairs for me, one pair twice which are like new in performance but broken in and comfortable. He also repaired a pair with a new rand, mid sole and resole that had been poorly resoled by Cheshire resoles who had changed the original toe profile. Unbelievable quality and craftsmanship. 

Post edited at 08:38
 hms 04 Nov 2018
In reply to Christheclimber:

Another vote for George - incredible craftsmanship, he pretty much rebuilt my shoes. Someone at the wall seriously thought I'd bought new ones! 

Outbound postage cost to Greece was about £11 for 3 pairs as for smaller ladies shoes they just sneaked below a weight boundary. 

 Jim Lancs 04 Nov 2018

I've had nothing but good, fast, friendly service from Cheshire Shoe Repair.

I've used several of the alternatives and CSR are now the one I use through choice.

In reply to Wayne S:

Another one for Feet First in Chesterfield. Drop your shoes at the Climbing works if you’re in Sheffield. I routinely resole Scarpas and La Sportiva with C4 and have had a good experience with them. Also hear great things about the guy in Llanberis (drop off in V12).

problem now is that I picked up a pair of Boldrinis in Cham this summer and climbed in them in Font, so I need a resoler who can source Boldrini Formule rubber. There’s no going back I’m afraid ;-(

 

In reply to Wayne S:

Another one for Feet First in Chesterfield. Drop your shoes at the Climbing works if you’re in Sheffield. I routinely resole Scarpas and La Sportiva with C4 and have had a good experience with them. Also hear great things about the guy in Llanberis (drop off in V12).

problem now is that I picked up a pair of Boldrinis in Cham this summer and climbed in them in Font, so I need a resoler who can source Boldrini Formule rubber. There’s no going back I’m afraid ;-(

 

In reply to Wayne S:

Another one for Feet First in Chesterfield. Drop your shoes at the Climbing works if you’re in Sheffield. I routinely resole Scarpas and La Sportiva with C4 and have had a good experience with them. Also hear great things about the guy in Llanberis (drop off in V12).

problem now is that I picked up a pair of Boldrinis in Cham this summer and climbed in them in Font, so I need a resoler who can source Boldrini Formule rubber. There’s no going back I’m afraid ;-(

Edit..

found a resoler for Boldrini rubber...

http://www.sportsresole.com/ressemelage-chausson-escalade/

might try it on a pair of Testarossas

Post edited at 09:25
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

Just another shout out for Torquil at Llanberis Resoles. Can’t comment on the pros/ cons of the rubber nowadays as I had mine done back when he could offer 5.10, but he resoled a pair of totally shagged original pinks for me and they were mint when he’d finished, it was like getting a classic car back from a restoration job (except they still smelt of my horrible feet: you can’t have everything)

 Derek Furze 04 Nov 2018
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

I'm a big fan of Boldrini's as well - a bit frustrated that they are increasingly hard to source in the UK.  However, just picked up some Apache 5's so may try out the link you provided to get my Tigers resoled.  I'm with you - the rubber is great.

 

 HakanT 04 Nov 2018
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

George is the man. I've used Llanberris (de-laminated quickly) and Cheshire (OK-ish) but George is in an entirely different class. Rand repairs are invisible, shoes retain their shape and the price is better.

 Gambit 04 Nov 2018
In reply to HarryJamesClimbs:

Feet first and 5.10 C4 gets my vote


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