Enchainment suggestions: Snowdon area

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 C Witter 24 Oct 2018

I'm hoping to attempt the Black Cuillin traverse next Spring with a couple of friends, and having been trying to think up a good prep day in Snowdonia, switching between scrambling and climbing. If nothing else, it should be a good day out in itself.

I've thought of one possible enchainment in the Ogwen area:

Sub-Cneifion Rib (VD) into Hope (VD), scrambling up and over into Cwm Cneifion for the Cneifion Arete (D), followed by the Dolmen Ridge (Grade-3) to the summit of Glyder Fach. From there, a decent down Bristly Ridge to the Heather Terrace for Pinnacle Rib Route (D), and a descent via the North Ridge.

I've done something similar before and I think that could be a good day out, but my friends are quite keen for The Parson's Nose (D) into Clogwyn y Person Arete (Grade-3) - which means thinking of a similar enchainment in the Snowdon area.

I was wondering if anyone has any good suggestions for extending that, without straying above Severe? Any advice much appreciated!

 Simon Caldwell 24 Oct 2018
In reply to C Witter:

You can approach via Jammed Boulder Gully (Grade-3), and if Severe is OK then follow it with Reade's Route (Summer) (S). Or descend back into the cwm after the arete and reascend via Gambit Climb (S)

 oldie 24 Oct 2018
In reply to C Witter:

You'll have to come back down to Llyn Idwal to do Hope from Sub Cneifion.

Hope (or Faith if its crowded) might be followed immediately by something like Lazurus (S) then Groove Above or Arete Climb then scramble up to Glyder Fawr to do eg Central Arete one of the other broken routes and then drop down into Cwm Cneifion and do Manx Wall (S still?) or an easier route to the right on Clogwyn Du. You could then go over Glyder Fawr and down to top of Devil's Kitchen, ab down and climb back up (or do Devil's Staircase) and go back in Y Garn direction and down to Idwal as time allows.

A climbing approach to Reade's Route on Crib Goch might be The Cracks (possibly avoiding crux at top by escaping into Eastern Gully). Alternatively start up Eastern Gully, though as pointed out in an earlier thread it is a descent from the Nose and can be busy. Go up and right to Slow Ledge Climb (HS/S ?) and scramble up towards CG.

 

Post edited at 15:05
 CurlyStevo 24 Oct 2018
In reply to C Witter:

The Parson's Nose (D) into Clogwyn y Person Arete (3) that's just one climb tbh, its basically the true line of the Arete and very good. The down climb is a little daunting between the two climbs (unroped)

You could enchain it with:

Cwm Glas Mawr Approach (Grade-3) and something on Dinas Mot

 

OP C Witter 24 Oct 2018
In reply to oldie:

Thanks  for the suggestions.

Yes, the Sub-C Rib route means descending, but it's only a 10min scramble back down to the Cwm Idwal path if I remember correctly.

Lazarus and something else (Groove Above, Arete Climb, etc.) would make sense. But, I've been trying to avoid Severe climbing for the benefit of one of my companions, who is resistant to the idea. This also puts paid to The Cracks and Slow Ledge Climb (VS), unfortunately. 

By the by, I've done Central Arete and found the second pitch a bit of a horror show: a clean slab, with scarce pro and some very flaky rock or vegetated ledge shuffling to the left of that. It wasn't such a big deal, but I wouldn't rush back or recommend it to friends!

OP C Witter 24 Oct 2018
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Thanks for this - good suggestions. I've still not quite got my head straight how all the ridges link up around Snowdon, and where you can easily link crags, so that's very helpful.

OP C Witter 24 Oct 2018
In reply to planetmarshall:

Yeh, it's a good article, thanks; I've looked at it before.

I guess Jammed Boulder Gully (3) could be followed up Dinas Mot, to the Gyrn Las scramble (3), followed by Parson's Nose/Y Person Arete (3) (optional Gambit climb), then Reades' Route (VDiff/S), followed by heading up to Snowdon or back down. Sounds pretty good. Although not as good as the Cwm Idwal day, to me!

I'm tempted to start up Lliwedd, instead.

 CurlyStevo 24 Oct 2018
In reply to C Witter:

You can scramble up the rest of Dinas Mot after the nose btw

 alan moore 24 Oct 2018
In reply to C Witter:

This all sounds way too much fun compared to the endless rubble scrambling that makes up most of the Cuillin ridge.

How about doing the Snowdon Horseshoe three times with Reades Route and Avalanche thrown in each round?

Im joking really. 

Do it four times.

1
 Mark Reeves Global Crag Moderator 26 Oct 2018
In reply to C Witter:

I have done a few. 

Two biggest days were:

Amphitheatre Buttress (VD)Direct Route (HVD)Grooved Arête (HVD 4a)Direct Route (VS 4c)Hope (VD)Lazarus (S 4a)Groove Above (S 4b)Grey Slab (VS 4b). We did then run down to Llanberis Pass and do Rib and Slab (VD) and NewNea (VS 4b) at which point we were so knackered it became dangerous.

Another day we did 

Direct Route (VS 5b)Slow Ledge Climb (VS 4b)Main Wall (HS 4b)Clogwyn y Person Arete (Grade-3)Avalanche/Red Wall/Longlands (S 4b)Longland's Climb (VS 4c)

Another day I ran a charity challenge of 12 hour climbing at Tremadog and we climbed nearly 20 routes.

So many options and making your own is so much fun.

OP C Witter 31 Oct 2018
In reply to Mark Reeves:

That sounds like some fantastic days out, Mark! Not quite sure we'll have your stamina, though!


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