Replacing fixed Gear

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 193 02 Oct 2018

Not a user of forums so apologies if this has been covered over and over.

When in logbooks people say sing needs replacing , do they then go back and do it . Surely they should 

As opposed to saying tat in poor order which is just information . 

The first to me just sounds as if they expect someone else to do the work , which falls to a few folk . 

 

 

When the current crop of  cleaners retire , there are going to be many more redundant routes

 

 

 

4
 gravy 02 Oct 2018
In reply to 193:

Reporting of dodgy gear should never be hampered.  Better reported and left than not reported. 99% of climbers are not equipped (skills or gear) to replaced fixed gear.

OP 193 02 Oct 2018
In reply to gravy:

wasn't specific enough , cases in point are fixed slings , and on accessible crags .

and take your point regarding the likes of bolts, pegs etc . hope your 99% is over estimate , sad inditement otherwise , 

 

 

 

 gravy 02 Oct 2018
In reply to 193:

Put it this way - would you trust 99% of the people at your local climbing wall to put in a bolt that you'd be happy to fall on in 5 years time? 

 tmawer 02 Oct 2018
In reply to 193:

Some people (me) do not routinely carry tat, but perhaps we (I) should. I might report poor condition tat so anyone reading it may be made aware, but walking back up to a high crag and reclimbing a route to replace it seems too much to ask.

 andyman666999 05 Oct 2018
In reply to 193:

Interesting statement - ever considered that perhaps as the “current crop” get more experience they may well gain the skills to replace fixed gear ?? I mean everyone has to start somewhere and everything is so much more strictly regulated. 

 AJM 05 Oct 2018
In reply to tmawer:

> Some people (me) do not routinely carry tat, but perhaps we (I) should. I might report poor condition tat so anyone reading it may be made aware, but walking back up to a high crag and reclimbing a route to replace it seems too much to ask.

If it can easily be replaced on lead there's a question as to whether it should be in situ in the first place, so the ones that really need replacing are probably ones where you have to walk up and abb the route rather than even getting to reclimb it.

 gobbledigook 06 Oct 2018
In reply to 193:

I always carry some tat and a maillon, to place or replace worn out or suspect fixed gear such as abseil stations or to bail from.  Also carry a knife to cut away and remove all the crap tat that has built up over the years!

it should be standard practice for all climbers, but unfortunately many people these days expect the crag to be kept in immaculate condition by others so that they can just rock up and climb like they are at the wall... 

in the case of belay stakes, you should contact the local BMC area rep, they will know someone locally who can go and replace a stake, and there might even be a local fixed gear fund you can donate to.

Post edited at 18:40
 Jon Stewart 06 Oct 2018
In reply to 193:

Since I moved to the Lakes and was faced with abbing off the world's most minging tat after pretty much every route, I started carrying a knife, old rope and maillons. Those who don't a) have to ab off minging tat and b) miss out on a splendid glow of self-righteous smug pride after "cleaning up the mountains" (while leaving some better, but ultimately similar tat in its place).


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