Stanhope Dean[crag(25885,"Stanhope Dean
developing sport crag could do with some second ascents to check grades
8 routes with 4 bolted so far
Good work! I’ve eyed that up a few times. Throw up a 5.7 and I might even be able to report something useful back...
My parents live in Wolsingham. Glad to see some development in the local area.
Looking forward to checking it out on my next visit up.
What is the bolting policy for Weardale/Durham area?
> What is the bolting policy for Weardale/Durham area?
Can I also be the mug to ask, what's the grading policy? Why the US grades?
> What is the bolting policy for Weardale/Durham area?
There is no developed climbing in weardale I think apart from a couple of bouldering sites and some winter routes in quarries that are traditionally top roped from rotten fence posts.
Teessald has a multi pitch trad on whin sill.
I can’t think of any local precedent for what to do with limestone quarries... Nor do I see a worrying local precedent being set by bolting one.
There are a lot of limestone quarries in Weardale. I spent a few days walking there last year and came across lots that would have been developed long ago in another area. I did spot a few bolts on this buttress at Bollihope but couldn't find any info online
https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3853710
If I wasn't 'retired' I might be tempted to book a holiday in Frosterley. Please drop the painted names (and US grading!). A good topo is all you need.
> There are a lot of limestone quarries in Weardale. I spent a few days walking there last year and came across lots that would have been developed long ago in another area.
Indeed; most aren’t on acces land, and a lot of them have lakes at the bottom though. The Bollihope one is good roadside access and a dry bottom. Always thought it looked rather chossy for my tastes...
> A good topo is all you need.
I agree.
You are right - I can think of plenty of crags with horrendous top outs but would make fairly decent sport venues within Weardale and surrounding area.
The pictured arête has been on my bolting wish list for about 10years!
If these were in Peak District they would have been bolted up many many years ago.
Perhaps one for the BMC rep?
CRoW access shouldn't be an issue (it only gives you a right to WALK on land not to climb/bolt on it so the status isn't really relevant here. Discrete climbing should be OK on the crags I passed by - apart from the Bollihope pic I'm not saying where - get out and explore (that's half the fun!). The wall shown in the pic has one (maybe two, I can't remember) bolt lines and space for more. The quarries south of the burn would also repay some attention (no pools).
Someone always gets in there first if you leave your list too long (I've had a few over the years). BMC reps shouldn't really be needed unless an access problem arises and that would seem unlikely given the locations and probable numbers of visitors to what are always going to be esoteric venues.
just because that's what I'm used to.... but no bother, I'll put the french grades up as well... cheers
> just because that's what I'm used to.... but no bother, I'll put the french grades up as well... cheers
Makes sense, you have inspired me to find a crag in the US, and develop it with grades like "mild very severe" "hard very difficult and, my favourite from old - "very severe - rubbers" ;0)
> CRoW access shouldn't be an issue (it only gives you a right to WALK on land not to climb/bolt on it so the status isn't really relevant here. D....
Er yes it does, it allows climbing (but not bolting), from https://www.gov.uk/guidance/open-access-land-management-rights-and-responsi...:
"People can normally access your open access land on foot. They can:
walk
sightsee
bird-watch
climb
run"
Apols for this OT response, but it took BMC reps a lot of effort to get it into the act so it's a shame if climbers don't realise it.
that was my playground as a kid - we lived on Crawleyside - the escape lane (Britain's first?) was put there because of the awful coach crash in the late 1960s while we lived there
No worries - I've learned something new. I wonder where caving would stand? It would seem odd to be allowed to walk over to an entrance and then not be legally allowed to enter.
It won't have changed the law re going into caves, just access to the entrance. Presumably landowners can still block up the entrances like they can now. Worth noting that whilst we have a right to climb, landowners can destroy climbing on the crags if they want (chipping/dynamite/muck spreader/blocking parking) so it's still necessary to maintain good relations with land owners/tenants, some of whom are totally unware of the CROW laws. There was an incident at The Stell where the landowner banned climbing (it's on CROW land). Some of the loudmouths on here were all for confrontation/mob handed type of stuff. What happened was that a rep went to talk to the guy at his farm, and explained the law re liability/climbing and now we have good access with better parking and no issues and a happy farmer.
Is this crag on CROW land?
Have you had any contact with the landowner?
Interesting to know and don’t mean the questions to come across aggressive.
hello there sam.... as per the description, its on private land which is used daily by local dog walkers and hikers without incident
Franco Cookson and Mike Conlon are the NE area access reps - maybe fwd to them to see what if any issues there may be?
it seems this post has been hijacked by access issues for some reason... i was merely inviting anyone to come and check the grades and do a bit of climbing on lovely rock
> it seems this post has been hijacked by access issues for some reason... i was merely inviting anyone to come and check the grades and do a bit of climbing on lovely rock
Ha ha welcome to UKC
It's not as bad as it may appear, at first.
well mate we have no visitors yet.... perhaps its too far from durham? anyway, plan more routes 4 next weekend.... not to mention the quarry next door.... upwards and onwards eh....
ahem, I seem to remember our dog falling off the top at one end of it, many, many, many years ago.
> hello there sam.... as per the description, its on private land which is used daily by local dog walkers and hikers without incident
> well mate we have no visitors yet.... perhaps its too far from durham?
too far away from here for me
send it over to climbonline.co.uk bit of a north east route database and news of new routes/areas.
might get you some visitors.
You need to give much better approach notes and map reference.
Went down to to check these out and couldn’t find the crag. There is so much rock in Stanhope Dean.
sorry about that sam? we had visitors yesterday who found it with no problem... its the first quarry in about 400 yards from the main road
Looking forward to taking a look at this Crag soon.... great to see some more climbing in the area.
look forward to seeing you here. feel free to drop me a message if you want a tour/belayer.... hopefully putting some more routes up tomorrow!
9 routes bolted now... plenty more to come... still no 2nd ascents
Members of the old Yackley Climbing Cub free climbed in Stanhope Dean in the 60s,I remember finishing a route the with the aid of one of our cars headlights.Great boulderiing in the little quarry at the top of the dean best approached from Crawleyside.
bill there is an old sling and a karibena in a tree at the top of the crag... you must have left one! I'll go and check that bouldering out, cheers
Not guilty ,we were too tight to leave gear behind except for a peg in the right wall of Jacks Scar in Teesdale which try as I might I couldnt retrieve.Happy Days.Enjoy.
10 routes bolted now...
now 11 bolted... more on the way could still do with a few grades checked if anyone's interested?
I'd be interested when the weather improves. I live in Lanchester. Can you provide the details?
brilliant! i've sent you a message cheers
Hi
I'm thinking of having a look tomorrow. Not sure if the weather would allow climbing though. By the way I have quite a lot of bolts that I've never used.
the weather looks shocking tomorrow... but if you're coming over drop me a message and I'll head up to the crag
Going to have a look and walk the dogs. Should be there at 11ish.
Went early and did 6 of the lines.
Well impressed excellent limestone 25mins from home.
Tons more potential here. Had a walk into Ashes Quarry. Wow. Even more and better quality rock.
im really chuffed that you enjoyed it
Visited the crag on Mon 5th, could have picked some better weather though as we spent the whole day shrouded on mist, rock was dry but ground damp.
Led 5 of the easier lines in the Barney's Buttress sector and I felt the grades were maybe one grade too high.
Enjoyed the climbing and will visit again hopefully on a sunny day.
The crag needs more traffic to clean the routes and as with any new crag there is still some loose rock to watch out for.
...
> Tons more potential here. Had a walk into Ashes Quarry. Wow. Even more and better quality rock.
It'd be a good idea to give Ashes Quarry a miss, it has some VERY important Plants/Lichens both on the floor and on the walls and is a well known site in the community who are involved o that sort of study, although for some reason it isn't an SSSI.
Added another 5 new routes this weekend. 5c to 7a+.
The walls dry very quick and soon catch the sun. On Saturday in the sun it was tee shirt weather.
Much better than a climbing wall. Come and try and post comments.
Been this afternoon. Worth a visit. Rock seems similar to Trowbarrow. Very well bolted. Catches the sun and sheltered from the wind. Some routes are a bit 'scruffy' but will clean up. Hopefully there will be a topo soon !!
No worse than Bram Crag. So it'll soon be the most popular crag in the North -East !!!!!!!!!!!!!
….. and Jeff ……. it's 'Dene' !!
We had a decent few hours up there today. T Shirt weather for some of the time . More traffic needed but some good rock and lines . Dries quickly as yesterday fairly miserable in the N of England.
just got back from a quick climb before the snow started. Great little crag with some lovely routes.
Really enjoyed the place and would be lovely when the weather is nice.
Did a few routes trad in Frosterley Quarry in the early `80 s. Rock a bit blocky but would be better with a few bolts. Most were near the little bridge that crosses the quarry.
Yeah my dad pointed that crag out on the way back but the landowner doesn’t want climbers which is a shame. Loads of good potential sport venues in the area.
Hey Sam really pleased you enjoyed it. We where up on Saturday for an hour or two intending to try a new route but after giving it a good clean my hands were numb! So, chapeau for actually climbing something - awesome!
We must have just missed you. We we arrived around 11:30 and climbed till 2pm.
Might head there tomoorow again if the weather holds off!
We must have just missed you. We we arrived around 11:30 and climbed till 2pm.
Might head there tomoorow again if the weather holds off!
met some more climbers from Darlington today. 60+ routes.
drying out nicely in sun and breeze today.
heard rumours from some guys in Stanhope that the quarry has just been sold due to some dangerous stuff in the water leaking into the surrounding area.
Maybe something to watch out for over the next few months.
whats the deal with all the project lines? Are they open or closed?
I've just seen this thread. I would definitely be up for a look. Would you let me know when you are going up again? I live near Evenwood.
Not sure if you were serious but we went out to have a look at your suggested google maps location near Middleton in Teesdale. The "embankment" is shale/earth /stone waste. At least it gave us the opportunity to walk the dog and enjoy a very nice warm pork pie from the butcher in Middleton !
The projects are typically because of conditions such as wet when bolted or insufficient time to climb them. I would request they are left for the bolter to climb as there's a lot of time, effort and cost that goes into preparing them.
Feel free to bolt any of the gaps and create your own project.
agreed, 4 have escaped so far... but hey, its all good j&c