Best crag near edinburgh for VS-HVS

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 Jackob 09 Sep 2018

Hi taking my girlfriend who is at edinburgh out climbing this week, where are the best crags closeish (1h hour drive) to edinburgh for around HVS - VS??

 

Thanks

 Gary Latter 09 Sep 2018
In reply to Jackob:

Polney Crag, on Craig a Barns, just outside Dunkeld.

 Mike-W-99 09 Sep 2018
In reply to Jackob:

Crags that aren’t dolerite quarries-

Hawkcraig (But check the tides)

Traprain Law Has a reputation for being polished but there are some good routes that reward careful footwork!

Polney (as nice as it is) would need a very heavy right foot and a clear run over the bridge to even approach an hour from Edinburgh.

Post edited at 21:32
 Mark Bull 10 Sep 2018
In reply to Jackob:

Limekilns is also worthwhile at those grades - worth a look if the tides are not suitable for Hawkcraig. It's also a bit more sheltered on windy days. Please read the "Approach Notes" on the crag page before you go. 

 BrendanO 13 Sep 2018
In reply to Jackob:

Looks like you got to Hawkcraig then! Hope you enjoyed it, and possibly the lovely bakery nearby!

OP Jackob 14 Sep 2018
In reply to BrendanO:

 Yeah it was great thanks! Enjoyed the climbing more than the wind & rain, wouldnt be scotland without though!!

 CurlyStevo 14 Sep 2018
In reply to Jackob:

limekilns is great too - needs 24-48 hours dry before going

 BrendanO 02 Oct 2018
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Shop at Limekilns is good for rolls hot & cold, tea, etc. "The Sutlery" - try to support local shop if climbing there.

(Big pub, is it the Elgin?, does MIGHTY Sunday afternoon tea, with a separate ROOM where they have the cakes on display. Very oldfashioned, but you will not eat for 48 hours after)


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