UKH

Got a historical question which I was hoping the UKC hive mind could help answer. The sticht plate was patented in 1970 in Germany, but when was it first used in the UK? I first saw one as a child at an outdoor centre around 1983 or so, but I'm sure they must have been in use earlier than this. So, who used one back in the day, and  when from? If you didn't use one, what did people use instead, the waist belay, or something else?

Cheers!

I first used one in about 1977 I think, but they were well-established by then.  The other factor to bear in mind was when kernmantel rope come into common usage, replacing nylon hawser laid rope.

I found one in the Alps about 1971/2.  It was just a rectangle shaped piece of aluminium with a slot cut in the middle. I didn't have a clue what it was for 2 or 3 years. Yes we used waist belays.

Al

Did you see this thread?

https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rocktalk/when_did_people_start_using_bela...

I know that my father used a fig. 8 descender from about the time that the Whillans harness was invented. It's what I started with.

I remember using the rectangular ones in the early/mid 70's. They didn't work so well on laid ropes, which were still common in those days.

Edited for spelling!

Like the one without the spring, shown in this article.
http://www.compasswest.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/birth-of-the-belay-...

Does it mark me out as a hopeless beardy that I'm still using the 9/11mm spring version bought c1981?

nope, I only retired mine a couple of years back because the spring was broken and it did get frighteningly hot on long abseils (and I wanted something with guide mode).

Me too !  Those Cosmic Aresters were just cheap imitations that kept jamming

The Salewa Sticht plate is mentioned and shown in the book Ice Snow & Rock by Gaston Rébuffat and published in 1970.

I got mine in 1980 and I still use it as a spare back up. The spring is still sound.

Prior to that I used a waist belay with leather gloves. Still occasionally use a waist belay for bringing up a competent second quickly on easy climbs.

Careful Trangia you'll have the "best practice police" coming down on you

Al

http://www.storrick.cnc.net/VerticalDevicesPage/BelayDevices.shtml