Berry Head update : rockfall, camping etc

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 Kafoozalem 01 Aug 2018

With the publication of the new South Devon guidebook and shameless plugging here at UKC we are predicting a busy weekend at Berry Head now the bird ban has ended. There should be DWS'ers and epic trad'ers a plenty in party mood.

Please note the climbing is in an environmentally sensitive National Nature Reserve. The warden is concerned that people may break out the bbq's and cooking stoves at a time when the grass is tinder dry. PLEASE: NO NAKED FLAMES.

Additionally many climbers have traditionally slept over in the car park. This is not to be tolerated and the Warden says a security firm will be patrolling this year. With number plate recognition cameras in the car park you will be fined for an overnighter. Sorry to be a party pooper but PLEASE CAMP ELSEWHERE. Not all Torbay's camping sites accept groups so phone ahead. Whilst we haven't put it to the test the guidebook team thought manorfarmcows.co.uk looked suitable.

WINTER ROCKFALL: I was able to assess the damage to Magical Mystery Tour today. Whilst I cannot guarantee your safety I will still happily be soloing it via either finish (through the Blue Grotto or swim to the Promontory). I will just be carefull which bits of cliff top I wander around on because their is some cracking indicating further huge rockfalls are not far away. Check out the photographs posted today.

If Magical Mystery Tour seems too much of an adventure doing half of Rainbow Bridge and retracing your steps is a safer/sunnier alternative (Rainbow Bridge Diluted) and the Berry Head Quarry Traverses are great too.

OP Kafoozalem 01 Aug 2018
In reply to Kafoozalem:

As previously reported Gullivers Travels, Yard Trimmings and Auk are no longer climbable in their previous form.

OP Kafoozalem 01 Aug 2018
In reply to Kafoozalem:

I have linked the warden into this thread so please be polite!

 AJM 01 Aug 2018
In reply to Kafoozalem:

Thanks for the update - hoping to make it down for the bank holiday, maybe bump into you there?

Andy M

 GDes 01 Aug 2018
In reply to Kafoozalem:

Was that you loitering around the promontory today Pete? We were over on (off) Cutlass.  Bit chillier than the last few weeks!

Post edited at 21:02
OP Kafoozalem 01 Aug 2018
In reply to GDes:

Hi Ged,

Yep twas me and I saw the Cutlass antics. Ken was lapping Rainbow Bridge as usual.

OP Kafoozalem 01 Aug 2018
In reply to AJM:

Hi Andy,

Highly likely. It will be good to see you.

 

 GDes 01 Aug 2018
In reply to Kafoozalem:

Will be down on saturday again, see you there

 broc 02 Aug 2018
In reply to Kafoozalem:

Whilst it is doubtful I'll make it to Berry Head this weekend, just wanted to say a big thank you for all your efforts in checking routes and cleaning etc. It's much appreciated. 

Have recently got my hands on your new guide book - superb! It's visually stunning and I'm inspired to get out and explore. It even makes me feel the urge to get myself back to Chudleigh again!  

 snoop6060 02 Aug 2018
In reply to Kafoozalem:

I hope there are loads of people there this weekend as I'm down that way and super keen. But I can't swim. My missus has promised to be my lifeguard but if you hear someone shouting for help in a weird hybrid Manc/Scouse accent then don't just let them drown. That'll be me and I'm lovely

I'm told deep water soloing in armbands is defo not cool. 

 dunnyg 02 Aug 2018
In reply to snoop6060:

Someone has to start the fashion

In reply to snoop6060:

> I'm told deep water soloing in armbands is defo not cool. 

Didn't Martin Crocker wear armbands on the first ascent of Total Eclipse of the Sun (E8 6b) (or were they just attached to his shorts)?

 snoop6060 02 Aug 2018
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

To be honest I can deal with the stigma of being the first (or second) to be seen DWSing in armbands. I just meant it's not cool to rip your arms off your torso on splashdown. Especially not when it's a nice sunny Saturday. Not cool at all to ruin someone else's weekend like that. 

Anyway it did occur to me that some sort of emergency inflatable device in the pocket might be useful. Not sure they exist but I shall check. Hopefully something that immediately becomes a inflatable dinsosaur or something that cheers everyone up from the initial thought of me drowning. 

Edit: of course it exists http://www.kingii.com, no dinosaur unfortunately. Think they are missing a trick there. 

 

Post edited at 11:06
 Wft 02 Aug 2018
In reply to snoop6060:

go to Brixham and get a little blow up boat from a tat store. It gives you loads more confidence knowing there’s something floating to aim for once you’ve plopped in. This is especially good to have at Berry Head as a fall off Rainbow Bridge requires a good length of swim (dependant on whereabouts within the colour spectrum one falls off) 

Have fun, best route in the world

 danm 02 Aug 2018
In reply to Wft:

Yes, every DWS team needs their own HMS Smash!

A well known climber and podcaster is a non swimmer - he's been seen sporting a natty buoyancy aid when on a foray above the soup.

 unicycleboy 02 Aug 2018
In reply to Kafoozalem:

Weather looks cracking for the weekend and I might end up down there. Though I haven't had a chance to pick up the guide, anyone know if anywhere in Brixham or en-route (or near the A38) would stock it (Dart rock would have been the easiest but I don't think they have stock in yet)?  Will be down in South hams so would rather not have to go into Exeter or Plymouth just to pick it up.

 Hat Dude 02 Aug 2018
In reply to snoop6060:

> Edit: of course it exists http://www.kingii.com, no dinosaur unfortunately. Think they are missing a trick there. 

 

At least they'd be able to find your body floating under the surface with your arms straight up above your head

 Cusco 02 Aug 2018
In reply to snoop6060:

If it's a weird hybrid Manc/Scouse accent, you'll fit in well in Torbaydos. 

 Mr. Lee 02 Aug 2018
In reply to Kafoozalem:

Woozers that third photo is a bit worrying.

 snoop6060 02 Aug 2018
In reply to Cusco:

I know I've been there on the razzle. Ordered a taxi to the hotel and first thing the driver said was: famous for orgys that place. Happy days!


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