With the publication of the new South Devon guidebook and shameless plugging here at UKC we are predicting a busy weekend at Berry Head now the bird ban has ended. There should be DWS'ers and epic trad'ers a plenty in party mood.
Please note the climbing is in an environmentally sensitive National Nature Reserve. The warden is concerned that people may break out the bbq's and cooking stoves at a time when the grass is tinder dry. PLEASE: NO NAKED FLAMES.
Additionally many climbers have traditionally slept over in the car park. This is not to be tolerated and the Warden says a security firm will be patrolling this year. With number plate recognition cameras in the car park you will be fined for an overnighter. Sorry to be a party pooper but PLEASE CAMP ELSEWHERE. Not all Torbay's camping sites accept groups so phone ahead. Whilst we haven't put it to the test the guidebook team thought manorfarmcows.co.uk looked suitable.
WINTER ROCKFALL: I was able to assess the damage to Magical Mystery Tour today. Whilst I cannot guarantee your safety I will still happily be soloing it via either finish (through the Blue Grotto or swim to the Promontory). I will just be carefull which bits of cliff top I wander around on because their is some cracking indicating further huge rockfalls are not far away. Check out the photographs posted today.
If Magical Mystery Tour seems too much of an adventure doing half of Rainbow Bridge and retracing your steps is a safer/sunnier alternative (Rainbow Bridge Diluted) and the Berry Head Quarry Traverses are great too.