UKH

In this instructional film, Mountain Guide Peter Mason shows us how to ascend a rope out of a crevasse.

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In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

This technique isn't great to be honest. Why show something like this in an instructional video? With any slightly larger rucsac this would become impossible.

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

In most real situations this looks totally unrealistic to me!

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

Sorry guys but the technique used in this video is inefficient and poorly demonstrated. It is taking what can be a very easy manoeuvre and making it hard. It even uses (in UK lingo at least) the wrong name for the type of knot...

It might be a good idea to take this down and replace it with something better, before keen green alpinists start trying it out and getting themselves suspended by the foot!

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

In my humble opinion the overwhelmingly most important lesson is DON;T FALL IN, This might seem crassly obvious but the risks are highest when one is knackered, your concentration gone and/or the snow is sun softened. Constant alertness and simple common sense are your best safety strategies and require VERY HIGH concentration in these circumstances.

There are many simple points to keep in mind to keep you safe that do not require learning any techniques or carrying any equipment you would not be carrying anyway. I do not propose to try and list them - I am sure that there are many people better able to set them out. Mostly they are the simple application of modest intelligence. 

I do not suggest crevasse rescue techniques are unnecessary. However the first three, and therefore most important, strategies are:

1. do not fall in (yes this requires thought and planning).
2. climb out if possible,
3. use lots of muscle power (other people) if available, and a modest amount of technique, to pull/assist someone out, 

If these fail then instructional videos may help.

 

In reply to Jim Cooper:

So rather than an instructional video, you're proposing your own instructional forum post?

 

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

I only managed to watch a few seconds of the video.

Surely it is best to have prussik knots/devices already on the rope in case you fall in.

That way if you break an arm or get one wedged in a tapering crevasse you can still possibly climb the rope when it is secured.

I have it on good authority ( second hand, fortunately ) that it can be quite cold wet and constricted down there.

"So rather than an instructional video, you're proposing your own instructional forum post?"

?  No.

 

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

If he had used a regular prusik clipped to a sling for his foot he would of done one step instead of 6 there I think, otherwise I think it was ok?

In reply to Cheese Monkey:

If had he had placed the sling below the traxion after getting a little slack into the dead rope it would have been much easier. The principals of this method are ok, but its just a very bizarre way of doing it. Seems to be aiming at using the minimal amount of gear as opposed to the most practical way.

As for doing this with a heavy pack (a criticism of this method mentioned above), I would imagine clipping the ascending device into the overhand knot on the coils would be a much easier way of keeping balance. Instead of hanging near upside down, or being flipped over when clipped in to the belay loop.

In reply to UKC/UKH Articles:

"this next first move is going to be a bit physical"

enough to require a power fart?