Access to Tintagel Head - Update

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I'll grant you this is a bit niche, but it's worth knowing if you're heading to  Tintagel Head and may even encourage you to do so.

The contact details on the RAD are now out of date (something I've emailed the BMC about separately) and the best email address to catch them on is tintagel.castle@english-heritage.org.uk. We ended up turning up on the day (as the person we emailed left two years ago), which didn't present too much of a problem - you just sign a disclaimer and go on your way - but they did say it was nice just to have a few days warning. I have a feeling it is common for them to let climbers through free of charge, although we did pay (partially because I wasn't aware of this, hence didn't push it).

In terms of the routes, Il Duce (E5 6a) was pretty much dry - just leave it as late in the day as you can. Vagabond (E4 5c) and King's Arete (E4 5c) are both crying out for ascents, but sadly we lacked the time. Whilst it's not necessarily on the grounds, Stu Bradbury's Fight or Flight, which is on the adjacent headland, looks absolutely incredible and is destined to become a modern classic should it ever get a second ascent.

One final word on access: English Heritage are keen for you to be out by closing, which given the fact the routes only comes into the sun in the afternoon, and that they're all pretty challenging, is something of an issue. We started at 3pm and did all we could to make it out by 7pm, but some things can't be rushed... Maybe this is something for the BMC to negotiate, but for the time being please do all you can accommodate the agreement in place. 

 

 

 

 Misha 24 Jul 2018
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Thanks for taking the lead on this. 

 Ramon Marin 24 Jul 2018
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

nice one rob

 james mann 25 Jul 2018
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Rob,

Good Work with Il Duce. I ask our access rep to inquire about access for Tintagel Head and see what we can work out with regards to time and what they wish climbers to do. Hope you’re having a brilliant SW trip. 

 

James

 MischaHY 25 Jul 2018
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Cheers for the update Rob - we did a south coast trip in 2016 and were keen to check out Tintagel but access seemed murky so ended up spending more time at Sharpnose (hardly heartbreaking!). 

Good to know you can arrange the access relatively easily. 


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