UKH

Hi Folks,

What's the deal with going on an independently organised / self guided expedition to Nepal these days?

Nothing extravagant, perhaps something like Island peak or a similar 6000er in Nepal.  

I heard recently the rules have changed regarding guiding and acquiring permits in Nepal. It would be great if someone could shine some light on the matter as everything I have read so far is a bit vague. 

Thanks,

H

Here are some links to start with:

http://www.nepalmountaineering.org/article-NMA%20Peaks

http://www.visitnepal.com/getaway/nepal_peaks_climbing/climbing_rules.htm

I usually employ an agency in Kathmandu to make the arrangements and get the required permits. That saves a great deal of hassle but you can do it yourself if you know people and have enough time. It is difficult to recommend a specific agency as it is a bit of a lottery. Others may have some suggestions.

Thanks for the links - some helpful information.

It's looking like if you want to gain a permit you have to employ a local guide, which is rather annoying.

Its nice to support the local economy and, unless you've been before, you'll see that it is most welcome in one of the poorest countries in the world. A decent guide will also tell you local customs and history etc. 

Going guided should be an option - both guided and unguided trips can be very different experiences. 

I appreciate that supporting the local economy is important but I should be able to do that in my own way. 

I'm no cutting edge alpine climber but I certainly don't feel I should have to be guided to gain a permit. 

H

A Nepalese guide won't cost anything like what a european guide would and most will be happy to do what you want them to do and not get involved in the climbing unless you want them to. 

We hired one for tent peak (20 years ago mind), he was a very nice, interesting chap we gained a lot of insight into the Nepalese culture, landscape and wildlife, and he didn't go above base camp.

It certainly sounds like you got what you paid for :P 

Well you could always go to Peru if a guide is an issue.

There are plenty of PD to AD 6000m peaks and all you need for the permit is your alpine club card. Guides are available but not required.

Well, we got what we wanted.

Peru looks insane, I think a few more alpine season's before I get on anything over there - Bolivia looks fun to.

The reason for it all was some friends had suggested Island Peak in Nepal as part of a commercial expedition in 2019, I didn't fancy going as part of a pre-organised/guided trip as I wanted to get that experience for myself (learn the hard way I guess).

Isn't the "guide" what is more commonly known as the liaison officer and has been a feature of climbing in Nepal for decades? From what I understand (if that's the way you want it) they are usually just a formality, not very interested in the climbing and won't generally go above base camp - they are not "guides" in the sense you might understand the term in the UK/Alps (although I'm sure you could acquire that service if needed) and you wouldn't be on a "guided" climb as such...