UKH

Hey everyone. Me and a friend want to go to either the Peak District or Lake District for some sport climbing and wild camping at the end of June. Wondering if anyone has any good locations? Or many other options. I’m open to ideas. Thanks

i hope I have put this in the right fourm :s

Any one with any ideas?

Not too much sport climbing I'm afraid. Trad however is another story.

I think the problem is that you can find places in Lakes to wild camp in the mountains but the sport climbing will be elsewhere. In the Peak you'll struggle to find wild camping spots. 

The Lakes is a fantastic place for wild camping, e.g. in Upper Eskdale, or countless other locations. But the sport climbing is nowhere near the wild camping spots - it's round the edges in farmland rather than in the mountains.

I would separate your plans and do hiking/wild camping in the central Lakes as one thing, and go sport climbing in the Dales or South Lakes as a separate thing.

I was kind of afraid of this. I will do some more searching. The whole plan of the weekend is based around kind of getting lost and doing some climbing. It might be the case that that carnt happen and if that’s the case that’s fine. What are the best sport crags in the lakes? I can see if we can hike from a wild camping spot to climbing

Try and get hold of a few nuts, slings etc. and give a nice easy Diff, V Diff a go then bivi with a wee dram, far more enjoyable than sport climbing

I've seen people camping in Horseshoe Quarry, I'm sure strictly speaking its not allowed but can't imagine that anyone would really object - its not really wild though. Don't leave any crap behind though, either literally or metaphorically.

Why does it have to be sport climbing? You are limiting your options massively then,

The best one,  Chapel Head Scar is bird banned until the end of June and is outside the mountains near the estuary. There are a few other crags along there but they're not great. A popular Lakes sport crag is  Bram Crag Quarry - in the mountains and would be hikable from many good wildcamping spots. But is is just a quarry by the road, full of mediocre routes many of which are loose. Or there's St Bees on the west coast - interesting sandstone, but not near anywhere you'd wild camp. Great bouldering there, and a beautiful spot.

Is it really not possible to borrow gear and learn to do some trad? There are stacks of amazing routes in the mountains where you can wildcamp and climb. We don't bolt these routes in this country, we save the bolts for the shit quarries and overhanging limestone. Just doesn't go together with wildcamping, which you do in the mountains. Another option, requiring even less gear, is scrambling. In many ways the best option as you can cover loads of ground, get to some really spectacular places and don't have to drag all the gear around.

Because I have no  trad climbing gear...