UKH

Hello,

I'm looking to purchase a new pair of approach shoes for use when I need to clip them to my harness for the walk back off the route. Ideally they'd be light, work well on grass & rock (wet or dry) but also be OK for some scrambling, only enough to get to and off routes though.

My current approach shoes are La Sportiva Boulder-X shoes, which are a great shoes but pretty heavy when clipped to your harness. My current thinking is to buy an Innov8 Rocklite 290 but thought I'd see what other peoples thoughts are and any possible alternatives? Down side with the Rocklite 290 is there's no loop at the back to clip on to so I'd have to go through the shoe lases I guess.

La sportiva TX2's clip together and clip to your harness, very light!

Approach shoes always heavy, particularly when compared with trail runners.

I've a precursor to the roclite and Nike Wildhorse both of which I prefer to my Scarpa zens. If you've only got one pair of shoes then approach shoes are great, if you're taking rock shoes then trail runners are the better partner .

Always clip laces as the loops on the heels tear if the shoes twist whilst on harness. Laces just tighten a little which is no bother. 

Adidas Terrex swift, various versions exist. I got a pair out of a bargin bin a year or so back and they been fantastic. The Goretex linings make them a bit sweaty but for something light to clip on and walk back after a big route, they are better than approach shoes. The speed laces are wonderful.

Have a look at Evolv Cruzer Psyche approach shoes. Very light and modelled on trail running shoes. Got some over christmas and been wearing them a lot. Due to a toe injury preventing me climbing I haven't tried them out at the crag. However, I'm based in Edinburgh and I've been really pleased with them on crag-approach style terrain and scrambling on the local hills (Pentlands, Arthurs' Seat etc).

Just go for the lightest hill running shoes you find comfy. Approach shoes are almost universally rubbish on British hills (wet grass) anyway (and heavy!).

Approach shoes tend to be good at easy climbing, but utter shite for wet rock, grass and mud. 

Trail running shoes are good for that. So your idea of getting some Inov8s is good. 

Although definitely not lightweight, the 5.10 camp 4's are actually pretty decent on the UK wet grass walk off, they have quite big lugs that grip well.

They are a bugger if you step in dog cr*p though...

I use a pair of Roclite shoes for this. Very light and the ones I have (290?) have good-size loops on the heel. Expensive but around the same price as decent approach shoes, as I'm sure you are aware.

I'll second this. Climbed HVS in my Terrex Swift Solos, and they weigh less than my actual climbing shoes (or at least, very very close to). Superb footwear!

Another vote for the Evolv Cruzer or Cruzer Psyche.  They are comfy, light and climb well, or in the case of the original version climb extremely well, albeit with a much narrower fit and less rubber protecting the upper around the toes.

I'm currently on my 3rd and 4th pairs, with a 5th pair sitting in the cupboard for when one of them wears out.

The only downside is that they aren't remotely water resistant...