UKH

Looking for a 2 day trip in the Lakes, starting early afternoon one day, walk in, climb route/s, bivvy up high, up early then climb route/s next day, down about mid afternoon. Will be June so have long daylight hours.

Grades best if Grade 3 scrambles and VDiff, up to max of an easy Severe. Long walks up steep and long climbs are a plus.

Suggestions please!

Try this:

Day 1. Napes Needle, Needle Ridge, down Eagle's Nest Ordinary, Arrowhead Ridge, walk to Pillar Cove and bivvy. 

Day 2. North Climb, New West Climb, down Slab and Notch, walk to Steeple, climb Steeple Buttress.

A few thoughts to get things started.  A nice easily accessible area would be around the Langdale Pikes.  Going up early in the afternoon via the path up to Stickle Tarn where there are a few bivvy locations.

Several options for scrambles and low grade climbs:  Jacks Rake offers the usual grade one route which gives access to Gwynne's Chimney (D) (more of a classic English trad thrutch than an alpine route!).  An alternative start could be Crescent Climb (M).  Cooks Tour (VD) offers an alternate route up Pavey Ark.

There are some routes available on Harrison Stickle for the following day such as Harristickorner (VD) or South West Face (2).  The latter could be used as an approach route either from walking up the Dungeon Ghyll path or by linking up from a route like Middlefell Buttress (D) on Raven Crag (before doing the Pavey Ark stuff the following day?).

Although, I have to say I'm now tempted to drive the extra miles and try Graham's suggestion myself!!

Using Wasdale as a start / finish point:

The Napes area of Gable is a good plan. But not sure why Napes Needle got suggested as it's a HS (and feels hard).

Go for Needle Ridge then Pinnacle Ridge up to the summit of Gable. Walk over to Scafell and bivvy near the Woolworth boulder (or plenty other options). For day 2 try Grooved arete (VD) on Pikes crag. If time / energy allow, you could finish with Broad Stand up to the summit of Scafell (beware it is quite slippery at the crux, but a worthwhile route, especially when dry.

HTH

Mark

Graham Uney's suggestion sounds ace. A variation could start at Grey Crag Buttermere on Day 1. There are all sorts of possibilities up the three tiers. Then, since you're bivvying, make the most of it and get out to Pillar, because it's so bloody far away normally.

Another thing that sounds very attractive to me: start in Eskdale and head up that way to Scafell. I think there's Cam Spout scramble, but also Esk Buttress - some sort of grade 3 - not sure if it's any good as haven't done it.

Finally, you could also get onto that central constellation of fells via Bowfell Buttress.

Hope you have a good time!
 

Wow, thanks all, great ideas! Fingers crossed we get weather like it's been recently.

Hi Mark. Yes, Napes Needle is given HS in the latest FRCC guide, but we all know that it's all pretty much V.Diff up to the shoulder, then one boulder problem move at around 4b to get on the top block. I suggested it because it's great training for the Alps, where you'd typically be on easier ground, but might have the odd harder pitch thrown in, and it involves some technical ropework to get down from too. All good training for the Alps.

It was graded HS in the previous FRCC guide back in 2003

For anyone looking for Vdiff and max an easy Severe I think Napes Needle is one to avoid. I didn't think it a vdiff.

Yes a fair and good point re technical rope work, although maybe not the ideal practice venue, what with the Needle having a reputation for descent problems.