UKH

Wonderland (E1 5c)

Is anyone aware of a 'single push' or one-day ascent of Wonderland at the Ruckle? 

Thanks in advance.

No but it sounds amazing.  I'd be more keen personally for the sea level big old traverse at Swanage Ben Bransby et al did, because swimming is allowed.

Am I reading that route description right?  67 pitches total, a 5c crux, and no fewer than 8 * 5b pitches, at boulder ruckle, traversing the central break which is the chossiest part of boulder ruckle (apart from the worst top outs and sections affected by rock fall )?  Just spending that long on a south facing cliff, on a dry day with enough daylight, how do you carry enough water, or can you actually bivvy somewhere and seige it?  Is having your friends undergo tactical abseils to strategically leave goody bags for you allowed - didn't Ron benefit from this when he traversed Stanage?!

All that in a day and you only get E1 for it?!!  It sounds like my idea of ED3 and a year or more's sponsorship, after Alpinist magazine interview you.

Still better than any route at Dancing Ledge mind.

Some information here:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/08/new_1278m_long_route_in_uk-69926

Miniguide here:

http://www.multipitchclimbing.com/

Haha. It certainly seems as ridiculous as you say, but that's climbing right? And also I have heard that one of its intentions is avoiding the chossy central band as much as possible.

Thanks mate. I've lobbed David Coley an email in the hope of some more info.

Would pre placing a porta ledge be fair game? 

Possibly. I'm open to portaledge donations...

You are correct about the E1 thing. The British grading system isn't really built for this length of route so I didn't know what to do. I also assumed most people would climb in Munro-style, in a series of visits. It might also turn out that the 5c and 5b bits are a lot easier: This is in part because, given the location, I did not want to sand bag anyone, but also with a 12 year old belaying at one point, I might of felt a little nervous.

Cheers David  - cracking effort by the way.  You made a pragmatic decision about the grade.  Anyone capable probably knows what the deal is, and the technical grades are very useful.

What do you reckon to an Alpine style single-push ascent - are the bivvies in good enough places? 

I've never done a single pitch at Swanage in under 20 minutes, let alone 67 of them, so I'm giving up on the 'in a day' personally.

I wondered about lowering a portaledge into position the day before starting, with all the supplies on board for a 5* night.

Sounds amazing.  You should put it on Airbnb.

Think I've been beaten to it: https://www.cliff-camping.com/

Awesome!  Maybe they could sponsor an attempt?

I'm sorry everyone, I'm abandoning my non-plans for an Alpine style single push attempt.  This company can provide wine to Boulder Ruckle.