Hi all
As in recent years, it appears that peregrine falcons are nesting on the far right-hand end of Fly Wall at Wintour's Leap, and so please do not climb any routes to the right (south) of Dragonfly (HVS 5a) - the restricted area includes Big Fly Direct (E1 5a) and Jos'e and the Fly (VS 5a). Signs have been placed at the approaches to the restricted area and above the cliff.
At Ban-y-Gor last year, following discussions with the Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT), it was agreed not to climb any routes to the left of Heady Days (6b+) on the Main Cliff. The GWT were happy with climbers' observance of this restriction, and as agreed at the time I re-visited the cliff with the GWT reserve manager earlier this year. In principle, the GWT were happy for the permitted climbing area to be extended as far left as It's A Sin (7a+) (so allowing climbing in the Apedex and Cemetery sectors as well as the Head Sector), but subject to nesting restrictions as last year (and it appears this year) peregrines have nested on the left hand side of main cliff. Therefore, for the moment please do not climb any routes beyond (to the left of) Heady Days (6b+) (there is already a sign in place to this effect). It is possible that when we have established exactly where the nest is, we may be able to extend the permitted area somewhat further left depending on the location of the nest, and when the nesting season is finished then routes as far left as It's A Sin (7a+) can be climbed - providing the restriction is observed in the meantime.
Thanks
Rick
BMC Wye Valley Access Rep
Post edited at 22:40