UKH

Went for a jaunt into the canyon today after finding some good ice at Bienn Udlaidh on Monday and the very cold forecast for Tuesday night. Can confirm that ice at udlaidh does not mean ice in Eilde canyon! Maybe using Sickle and other lower tier routes at Udlaidh as a barometer for potential ice in Eilde may be ok, but the upper tier at udlaidh forms much more rapidly.

Secondly, the canyon is NOT sheltered from the wind! it was an absolute wind tunnel today with spindrift akin to the Ben!

I mean 'The smirk' not sickle... I appear to be making route names up!

Good to know. Been eyeing it up for this year. Do you think it might form following this next week of low temps courtesy of our Russian comrades? Hoping to come up 3rd / 4th for Ben Udlaidh ice routes. Could be tempted into Eilde for a day if it looks promising.

Hi Webster, thanks for that. Not sure though what myth has been busted? I’m not aware of anyone (certainly not me) saying that “...that ice at udlaidh does... mean ice in Eilde canyon.”  What is the case is that “probably a good indicator is Beinn Udlaidh… if Udlaidh is ‘in’, then Eilde Canyon is worth a visit!”  I still think that is the case.  Anyway, always good to have folk exploring new(ish) areas, and giving feedback. Let’s hope the next few days of cold bring Eilde Canyon routes into condition.

Re the wind.. anywhere can be windy, and whilst Eilde can be very sheltered if the wind is blowing “across” it... if it’s blowing “down” it is a wind tunnel!! 

Hope this helps. Happy climbing  Simon 

I know, i was being slightly sensationalist in my topic title to get attention. the point still stands though, I think using the lower tier at Udlaidh is more likely to give an indication than the upper tier.