UKH

Lowering from loaded direct (guide-mode) belay device

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anonymous123 09 Jan 2018
Can someone please elaborate on and explain the differences, pros and cons of each of the following ways of defeating a loaded belay device in guide mode (say, ATC guide as an example):

- re-directing the brake strand
- re-directing the load strand
- LSD-Load Strand Direct lower; Marc Chauvin's system

Thanks in advance!
 jezb1 09 Jan 2018
In reply to anonymous123:

I did a video on one method ages ago: http://www.jbmountainskills.co.uk/news/2015/07/new-video-releasing-a-loaded...

Your method will be dictated by the device, ie. the Pivot may be easier to lower on than a ATC Guide.
Whichever method you choose, practice it before you need it, there's been near misses in the lowering process.
cb294 09 Jan 2018
In reply to anonymous123:

That is what the knife on the harness is for!

CB
 GarethSL 09 Jan 2018
In reply to jezb1:

That was a great video. I learned an almost identical technique years ago (with the only difference being the inclusion of a stopper/catastrophe knot) but am yet to do this in anger.

A nice 5 min refresher
 AlanLittle 09 Jan 2018
In reply to cb294:

I thought the whole idea of guide plate belaying was that you don't need the knife any more. Weight & cost saving.
 phil456 09 Jan 2018
In reply to jezb1:

+1 for practice, tried this on a vertical route in the gym once without redirect and it was nearly a disaster.
thereafter went for a redirect and munter on the harness and changed to a pivot when they came out.
Your use of a prusik looks a good idea, I will give it a go when I can find a victim ????
anonymous123 10 Jan 2018
In reply to jezb1:
Hey JB, i've seen that video before (it's good) and it's the way I've practised. https://www.climbing.com/skills/the-lsd-lower-how-to-lower-in-guide-mode/

I'm just wondering why anyone would do anything other than redirecting the brake strand as you do in the video - seems much simpler than the LSD lower.

I'd probably use an italian hitch on the redirect for added friction and backup with a catastrophe knot until i was sure the prusik would hold (maybe overkill, I haven't tried guide mode before).
Post edited at 04:33
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