In reply to Martin Hore:
> It's a little sad that I don't think we've heard yet heard from representatives of the manufacturers on this or my previous thread, with the exception of Jim Titt. I would have thought there are some climbers working for manufacturers who read these forums - though perhaps not.
> Having given this more thought I think that it would be helpful for the manufacturers to give a range of lifespans from "first use" if taking a major whipper to "x years" if stored unused in a dry dark place. They mostly do all give the "first use" warning but the current recommended lifespans seem to err on the side of caution and assume a normal rate of use. I can assess normal wear and tear myself by inspecting the kit regularly and keeping a log of falls taken, but I can't assess the chemical deterioration that takes place even if stored dry and dark and never used. I'd really find it helpful to know that. If it's 20 years or more before this reduces the strength appreciably then most of us wouldn't need to worry about that aspect. Gear that old would normally be retired long previously on the "visible wear and tear" basis. But if it's only 5 years then this is a substantial concern.
> Martin
What to write will be a policy decision taken at top level in a company so no flunky is going to comment except to give the company line. The upper echelons don´ t normally visit forums for excellent reasons. If you want their view you should email the companies direct and ask for the basis for their decision.
They probably won´ t tell you though, just that it´ s their opinion
The rest of your post illustrates (unwittingly) why it is such a problem, you use phrases like "normal use" and "reduces the strength appreciably" without defining either and nor do the standards. Exactly how weak do you think is acceptable for a sling for example?
When I make a bolt I have no idea if it is going to sit on an obscure slab in Arizona and get clipped once in ten years or be the crux bolt on a soft-touch 6a in Kalymnos where climbers stand in lines to hang their weak bodies from it. The standard says I should give a judgement on the life of the bolt depending on location, rock type, temperature, humidity and God knows what else but ignores the fact I don´ t know where the bolt is going or what the conditions are like wherever it ends up.
Similarly the soft-goods manufacturers don´ t know if their products are being used by a casual weekend-warrior in N Wales where the sun shines on leap-years or get the UV battering from a complete summer season in the Alps.