UKH

Hello, everyone!

I am a novice climber. This past summer I started hiking/trekking and did some sport climbs as well as a couple short multi-pitch routes and I am completely hooked on it.
I am looking forward to trying the bigger stuff in the Alps and reading the route descriptions meanwhile.
What I noticed is that the routes are classified into different types, eg Kuffner Ridge on Mont Maudit is more of a snow/ice/mixed route, while Hornli Ridge is a rock climbing route. Due to the mountain environment they are both done in the mountaineering boots and not rock shoes.
From my personal experience it is hard to imagine how one could climb rock in heavy bulky boots as opposed to the rock shoes.
So my question to the experienced guys, - how do you climb rock in mountain boots and do you use the same boots for say Mont Blanc and Matterhorn? If you do, what kind of model would you recommend?

PS: I realize there are also double boots used for the high-altitude alpinism, but that's a different story, here I am just asking about the climbs in the Alps.

Thanks a lot in advance.

In reply to IvanLi:

Hi Ivan
I'm not the most experienced alpinist, but the routes I have done, the rock climbing part is pretty low grade (mostly) - certainly less than Severe. If I were you I'd try some classic summer scrambles / easy rock routes in your alpine boots, something like Tower Ridge on the Ben or Sun-Cneiffon Rib in Idwal. I would probably use the same boots for the Hornli and the Gouter Routes but assess it on a route by route basis

In reply to IvanLi:

Im not as experienced as most on here but:

The sport climbs and multi pitch routes you have done will probably be far far more *technically* difficult than climbing these F-AD routes.
The type of boot depends on you really, I have climbed mont blanc in trangos which might be too cold for some at such a high altitude but for most other lower grade routes they (or any other light b2 alpine boot) will do fine. The main thing people will stress to you is to try on a selection of different brands and in a selection of different sizes in a reputable shop, with some thick warm socks on too. Dont be suckered in by cheap online deals as i and many other beginners have been.

In reply to IvanLi:

The benefits of climbing in big boots is that you do not waste time stopping to change footwear and you are not carrying unnecessary weight. I've climbed E1 in big boots because back in the day that's what we did. Depending on the rock type it is not always a disadvantage although granite slabs would be a challenge. The fissure brown is easier in big boots than rock shoes for example.

Al

Thanks for the answers.
I try to be more specific. I have purchased a pair of Mont Blanc GTX that fit me perfectly, in fact it's just a pleasure to walk in them.
From your experience, do they get used on rock routes in the Alps or are they more of a single purpose tool for ice/snow?
Don't you think the B2 boots (Asolo Parete Nord for example) are better suited to the rock routes?

In reply to IvanLi:

If you have stiff boots that are very comfortable you have what you need. You will need to practise using the stiffness of the boot on a few rock routes, but they sound better than anything I have had, and my feet are always battered after 2-3 weeks in the Alps.

In reply to IvanLi:

B2: lighter, cooler, more flex

B3: Heavier, warmer, stiffer

Everythings a tradeoff, if they are good to walk in you can do whatever you want in them.

If you mean ice climbing then B3 is the only way to go really.

Thanks, again! It's getting much clearer now.