Climbing in Bansko/Pirin National Park

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 TCP 30 Dec 2017
Does anyone know anything about how well developed sport/alpine or general trad climbing there is around Bansko or General Purim national park? There is a guide to the Vratsa or Veliko T?rnovo area but nothing that I can easily be found in the Pirin area.
I get the impression it's more Alpine and trad.
 alx 30 Dec 2017
In reply to TCP:

When I visited Bulgaria in the past it was really by word of mouth of the local climbers and the climbing clubs home made guidebooks you bought from Veliko youth hostel.

Veliko has loads of sport routes across these razor back limestone ridges that run for miles. Vratsa was a bit more hit and miss.
 zv 30 Dec 2017
In reply to TCP:

It's a beautiful area and I've done tons of walking and scrambling in the area but no climbing. The rock is often very lose and yes it's alpine only in Pirin.

The main attraction is the 400 meter wall of the North Face of Vihren which I hear has some amazing winter routes, however it is also a very dangerous place, also the whole area being some of the most avalanche prone in winter.

Topo here: https://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?f=massiveinfo&idMassive=111

In general, having scrambled in the area, it did not appeal to me for any actual climbing, as the rock seemed chossy. Place is super beautiful though, there is a ton of rock so maybe I'm wrong!

There is a tiny crag with some very limited single pitch nearby Bansko:

Topo here: https://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?f=massiveinfo&idMassive=488

If you are interested in alpine climbing, I also recommend the whole area of Rila, which has spectacular alpine, multipitch and even some single pitch sport next to the hut.

The "Kuklata" (meaning the doll) has some super classic multipitch routes between 6a+ and 7c+. You should check them out!

https://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?f=massiveinfo&idMassive=48


The topos are all in Bulgarian, but give you a general idea. What time of the year are you thinking of going?
 Iain Thow 30 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Do you know anything about the ridge on the RH side of the N Face of Vihren (Route 11 on the topo?). Looks great.
OP TCP 30 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

I'm in Bansko skiing at the moment, going home today but for climbing thinking about the end of the summer.
 zv 30 Dec 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Guidebook says:

"This is the righthand side ridge of Mount Vihren. It begins about midway on the path inbetween Vihren and Kutelo. Relavtively easy, however high up there is a very steep section with sheer drops on both sides".

Two photos are shown in the topo:

https://www.climbingguidebg.com/cdb.php?f=routeinfo&idRoute=2139
 Iain Thow 30 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

So a lot of scrambling and a pitch or two of V Diff ish maybe? Look to be plenty of holds on the top pic but hard to tell the angle.
 zv 30 Dec 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Probably but not done the route so can't comment on difficulty.
OP TCP 31 Dec 2017
In reply to TCP:

Thanks for the responses - seems like the best place to be based for general sport climbing is the Veliko Tarnovo area.
 zv 02 Jan 2018
In reply to TCP:

Veliko Tarnovo is fantastic. Beautiful location, you can stay at a good hotel for the equivalent of 20 pounds a night (like a 4 star one if you book in advance).

The crags are a quick car ride away and there is a huge amount of history and tourism in the place. I seriously recommend it!

It might also be worth spending a day or two at Prohodna cave.

Video of one of the harder routes here: vimeo.com/80381223 Now there are routes there between 4+ and 9a!

I might be climbing there in the summer as well, drop me an e-mail if you need some local knowledge or help with finding routes etc.

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