Classic E2-E4 trad multipitch recommendation in Alps?

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 mike lawrence? 15 Dec 2017
I'd like to take my odd little friend FatRob on a trip to Alps to do a memorable climb in May as his xmas present. Preferably it would be around 10-15 pitches so doable in a day and not so high that we'd need acclimatisation, E2-E4 with no harder than English 6a pitches and good climbing in a beautiful place. He is quite a dour guy so i'd like it to be good enough that even he can't be negative about it. I've done err most of Motorhead and he's done other stuff in that valley so not there. Are there any suitable in Chamonix? I guess the cima grande would be an option as the fixed gear does not sound great?

any recommendations would be appreciated,

thanks

mike
 Andy Moles 15 Dec 2017
In reply to mike lawrence?:

Plenty of good stuff that fits your description around the Envers Hut. The ones I've done are either shorter or longer than that but there are tons to choose from. Get your hands on the Piola guidebook.

Some of the face routes on the Salbit also fit the bill and are great.

 Alex@home 15 Dec 2017
In reply to mike lawrence?:

Alhambra (6b+)

Ok it's not in the high Alps and it isn't trad but it's up there with the best routes I've ever done.
And if you think it's 6b+ you're going well!

More likely to be in condition if there's late snow
 Luke01 15 Dec 2017
In reply to mike lawrence?:

Pedro Polar (ED1 6c)#overview
 99ster 15 Dec 2017
In reply to Andy Moles:

> Some of the face routes on the Salbit also fit the bill and are great.

Salbit is brilliant - and you can get the train from Geneva and then basically begin the walk-in to the (really nice) hut from the station. Highly recommended.


 kevin stephens 15 Dec 2017
In reply to mike lawrence?:

Another Day in Paradise on the Piz Badile
Another Day in Paradise (TD)
pasbury 15 Dec 2017
In reply to kevin stephens:

Is it all Ok up there after the earthquake?
In reply to mike lawrence?:

Are snow approaches ok? Grand Capucin is a very nice place to be! (Swiss Route etc.)
 kevin stephens 15 Dec 2017
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:
I'd love to be on the Capucin myself but requirement for acclimatisation may put off the OP?
1
 JR 15 Dec 2017
In reply to mike lawrence?:

It’s bolted, but it’s really good and there’s nothing harder than 6a on it. No acclimatisation required.

Bada Bing (ED1 6c)

Le Ticket, le Carré, le Rond et la Lune (TD+ 6b) will be memorable, though it’s a bit shorter. Good day out and you could potentially carry on to the top of the peigne if you’re very quick. Can still be wet in May on the slabs, and maybe some snow higher up on the peigne.

Lots of stuff in the Envers too as people have said.
 walts4 16 Dec 2017
In reply to mike lawrence?:

Personally I would avoid the Envers in May, too snowy on the approach, possibly maybe snow patches on the rock above affecting the routes & therefore the pleasure.

Maybe the below in the Argentiere basin would fit the criteria, although he may whinge about the walk in to the Argentiere hut as the lift will not be running.

Versant Satanique (ED1 6b+)
Or right along side it & maybe better:
Voyage en Pierre Sainte (ED1 7a)

Both classic routes & as a acclimitisation exercise, you could climb the easier but just as good a route:
South-East Spur (TD 6a)

Sure you would have the hut to yourself other than maybe some steep skiers, but definitely the makings of a memorable trip.



 kevin stephens 16 Dec 2017
In reply to mike lawrence?:
Having to go in May would be very early season for a lot of suggestions including mine maybe too much snow on the routes or approaches
In reply to kevin stephens:

Thanks for all suggestions so far. Fair point about May being a bit early. I have the whole of May off to climb but could maybe swop a week around and go mid June. Would that give a reasonable chance of having good conditions? The Grand Capucin looks fantastic, what would be a reasonable acclimatisation time? Also any other ideas would be welcome!

thanks

mike
 Ian Parsons 16 Dec 2017
In reply to mike lawrence?:

Would the Midi South Face be a possible venue? I recall seeing Piola and Steiner engaged on the first ascent of Super Dupont on 8th May [1984]. You can abseil in from the 'frique station at the top [assuming nothing has changed in that respect over the last thirty-odd years], making snow conditions slightly less relevant. I think that there are a few routes that would fall within your grade band; the database just gives all the harder routes ED1 so you probably have to look at the pitch grades to get a more precise idea, or at one of Piola's guides wherein the grade range seems to be ED/EDsup/ABOinf/ABO; or maybe somebody with personal experience can offer an opinion. I can only comment on the Mazeaud [EDsup] which seemed about E3 [but with a mostly pegged crux] and very good if rather short-lived - the harder climbing being all over after the first couple of pitches; I see, though, that the database lists it with a finish up the Desmaison, which would extend the interest.
 walts4 16 Dec 2017
In reply to mike lawrence?:

Mid June would certainly open many more possibilities around Chamonix for sure with the added bonus of spending some of the week acclimatising at a lower altitude area, then spending the rest of the week on the satellites, either on the Capucin or the surrounding area.

The Envers is well worth a visit by this time so ideal for an acclimatising period with the bonus of being fairly quiet still.

Additionally it gives the rock the chance to shed the residual snow & ice of the winter, especially the Capucin which is unfortunately well known for dropping ice from the summit cap.
Andrew Popp 16 Dec 2017
In reply to mike lawrence?:

I thought the Brown-Whillans on the Blatiere was absolutely superb. Again, maybe not in May? I wouldn't know.

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