UKH

Hi all,
I'm looking at a Rab Exodus jacket and see from all the reviews its wind resistant, not windproof, and designed for active pursuits like ski touring etc. hat I'm looking to use it for is cragging, mountain cragging and Scottish multi-pitch rock. I will also add it into my wardrobe for Scottish winter if it suits, but that's secondary.

So my question is will it be windproof to keep me warm enough on a belay halfway up a Scottish mountain route in autumn, for example. Or will the wind whistle through it like a teabag?

I know it not waterproof - that's a separate issue.

Cheers,

Lex

In reply to lex:

I've had one for a few years now, pretty solid jacket. I'd probably call it windproof, it's a medium-weight softshell. Been really good for cragging, multipitch mountain rock. Not the fanciest bit of kit, but it does the job!

If I was being picky I might prefer a heavier one for winter, but you can always just layer it with other stuff.

In answer to your question, I'd say yes (depending what you've got on under it), but I also sometimes pair it up with a gilet if it's really cold!

Hope this helps!

In reply to lex:

I got rid of mine as it wasn't as windproof as I'd like. I know it's meant to be an advantage as it allowed it to breathe better but it was less windproof than a pertex for a lot more weight.
It got to the point, wearing it in Buxton one winter and shivering, I marched into Jo Royles and bought a Paramo windproof and was much warmer.
I now use that or an ME Vulcan as they are both totally windproof and I just can't fathom why I'd want a shell that wasn't.

In reply to angry pirate:


Yes; it's not anywhere near as close a weave as the microfibre Pertex fabrics. Closer to Equilibrium (which is also a dual-weave stretch soft shell, but lighter).

The 'kiss test' is pretty good at testing fabric wind resistance; press fabric to lips, and blow. Use your hand to feel how much of your breath passes through the fabric. You soon manage to calibrate your test...

I'm still fairly convinced that the Exodus is made from the same fabric as Decathlon use for their Mountaineering Trousers. I've been hoping for some time that they'd start selling a half-decent soft shell jacket made from the fabric, maybe under the same Simond branding... No joy yet.

In reply to captain paranoia:

Funnily enough, I'd wondered the same myself. It works better on the bottom half though. I guess I feel the cold less on my legs, probably as the muscles generate a ton of heat.
I bought the Exodus after loving the fabric in my Rab softshell trousers which feels functionally windproof, as are the Decathlon ones.

In reply to lex:

Thanks all for your (conflicting) experiences....

Well, I 'won' one on a well known auction site, so I guess I'll find out for myself. You might see it for sale next year if it doesn't perform as hoped!

Cheers,

Lex

In reply to lex:

I use mine for cycling (road + commuting) - it certainly isn't windproof when compared to my knifeblade which I use when climbing. That said it is good/ warm enough, especially when paired with a light mid layer, and for my purposes the extra air is welcomed as I tend to run quite hot.

The reason I bought it was for the fabric's durability as I cycle everyday and nearly always with a rucksack, and so many modern fabrics aren't up to such day-to-day abuse. The cut/ stretch is also a real benefit as you can roll up the sleeves past the elbow even with a mid layer which is something i really like.