UKH

I've managed to get (up to) a couple of months off work Feb & March next year. I'll be in Nepal for a few weeks trekking (independently, possibly Langtang), and then have a few more weeks available to climb something. I need to be home by the end of March, ideally mid March.

Bit of background - went to Nepal in '14 and trekked around the Annapurna Circuit and the Khumbu for ~7 weeks independently, and know a reasonable amount about altitude and acclimatisation. Have done a little alpine mountaineering, albeit years ago, up to about AD, and a bit of Scottish, leading up to IV. Reasonably fit at the moment, but largely cycling-based fitness rather than mountains. Not likely to get much Scotland in this season beyond a couple of weekends.

I'm hoping a few weeks trekking Langtang (or similar) will help get generally trekking fit, and then walking into Lukla and Namche will provide decent acclimatisation. I'll hang around Machermo and Gokyo for a little while.

I'd like to climb a peak, something over 6000m and not too technical. I guess PD or AD type terrain. Ideally do it as independently as possible - I really don't like the idea of having a huge entourage of porters and helpers, and losing the ability to make choices or decisions that come with almost all commercial expeditions (it seems). Hopefully I've got enough time to make this possible, although concede I'll need to hire some porters at the least.

I'd be grateful if anyone could help me out with a few questions
1. Am I likely to get a permit for a trekking peak if it's not through a local agency? In theory it should be possible, but reality may be different and the policy seems to change year by year.
2. Suggestions for a peak to attempt? Island Peak would be a good choice if not for the hordes. I'd like to go somewhere a little quieter. Needs to be Khumbu and based out of Namche/Gokyo, 6000-6800m, not too technical.
3. Suggestions for trekking areas for the first part? Friend has suggested Manaslu but I think it requires a guide, which I'd prefer to avoid.

Lastly, if anyone has similar aims for Feb and March next year, let me know. At the moment I only have a partner sorted for the trekking bit of the trip.

Cheers!

In reply to Mowglee:

I did Lobuche East a little while ago. Great trekking peak, steep enough to feel committing without much actual difficulty. Not too busy - there was one other team on the mountain the day I went up, although there were some Everest climbers acclimatising on it later in the day who I met on the way down.
If you're looking for a little more technical challenge at a similar height, and almost certainly hardly anyone else around - I was also looking at Kyajo Ri.

I hired a porter from a local company (Nepal Eco Treks) for the trekking - walked up the Gokyo Valley, across Cho La to EBC and then back down to Lobuche. I met with a local guide for the peak but if you had good route information it wouldn't be hard to route-find in good conditions. With respect to permits, you can hire a porter through a local company and ask them to sort your trekking permit - that would be the easiest thing - depends how resistant you are to bringing a porter with you.

In reply to splat2million:

Thanks - sounds similar to what I have in mind.

In reply to splat2million:

Kyajo Ri is a awesome peak, was there this year and would definately recommend it!

In reply to Mowglee:

Wondering if anyone else has any suggestions for climbing at this time of year? I'm slightly put off by the fact that all the western guiding companies don't run trips at this time of year, suggesting it might be fairly unreliable conditions, and I may not necessarily get unbiased advice from a local guiding firm.

In reply to Mowglee:

want to contact a local guide for info ? If so i will pm you my friends details

In reply to chris fox:

That would be good, ta. Think a local guide will be the best option, as I'm also going to struggle to find 3 other people to climb with (to split the permits with) before March!

Cheers,