London-based winter climbers?

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 alexm198 15 Nov 2017
Are there any London-based winter climbers these days, following in the (rather big) footsteps of Fowler, Saunders etc? Just wondering as I'm going to be in London for the winter and looking for people who are keen enough (mad enough?) to make the journey north for weekend missions.
 Jim Fraser 16 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

Improved roads now but still more difficult in the age of the speed camera unless it's a very LONG long weekend. When tired you are going to make mistakes with that cruise control and may not get your licence back before the start of the next winter season. Now possible with Easyjet and Avis/Hertz/Enterprise and guessing when to book is going to be a struggle so the planning on a five-day forecast is probably not happening.
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 Phil1919 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Jim Fraser:

That's why when we all get there having used fossil fuels, there is less and less snow and ice. It you want to winter climb then best to move to Scotland. Make the best use of London whilst your there. Scotland is being used as an escape attempt from something your doing your not completely happy with. If I was a tax inspector in London, I'd probably want to do the same as Mick Fowler did, so I understand your thinking.
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 Mr. Lee 16 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

I used to drive to Scotland from London when I lived there. Not that difficult if you have someone to share the driving. Traffic delays are the biggest enemy and you can lose hours sometimes. Your biggest problem will be finding partners. It's fairly easy to find people who want to bumble up grade I/II gullies but trying to find partners who climb grade V upwards is very hard. It's even harder to find people who can leave work at a decent hour of Friday. I used to get away 3-4pm, which would get me to Fort William some time around midnight. My advice from personal experience would be to keep your wedding tackle to yourself and don't strike up any long-term relationships whilst in London. London is a shockingly bad place to live for winter climbing.
 ColdWill 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Mr. Lee:
I concur, I've just moved South from N Yorkshire and it is a climbing wasteland. Weekend to Scotland are out of the question really, 9h40min of non stop driving to Fort William means I can be in Cham in a similar time if I fly. On a point there, in Jan, I can fly to Glasgow return on a Friday night and come back Sunday evening for £90 (prob £60 more with a hold bag, didn't check) or Monday Morning or evening for £145 with 1 hold bag. The hire car would cost £51 for the Mon return so total travel cost of £196. Not much more that two tanks of fuel.
Hmmm
Post edited at 10:16
OP alexm198 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Mr. Lee:

Yeah you're right. I probably should've added that I've done this before - I lived in London a couple of years ago and made several drives up to Scotland so I'm fully aware that (a) it can be done, and (b) it is utterly grim. And I'm afraid it's too late for your advice - long-term relationship is part of the reason I'm moving there!

Well, this thread has been rather bleak so far.
OP alexm198 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Phil1919:

You make a good point Clint, though of course this is the perennial problem for many climbers - how do you find a situation where the balance of climbing/not-climbing is something you're "completely happy with"?
 99ster 16 Nov 2017
In reply to ColdWill:

>.... 9h40min of non stop driving to Fort William means I can be in Cham in a similar time if I fly.

I've made titanic, exhausting efforts to get to NW Scotland before from the SE...only to be rewarded with poor conditions. Like you say, it's actually (much!) easier to fly to Geneva and get the transfer bus to Cham.

Flying to Glasgow or Inverness is certainly an option, but there's still the drive to the airport, paying to park, the hassle of trying to transport all your kit, the hire car the other end. Increasingly, the weather/conditions are becoming such a gamble that unless you can drop everything and make a big effort to travel at very short notice then you might get there and have a poor weekend anyway.

It's a tricky one for sure...no easy solutions if you live so far from Scotland.

 JamesO!? 16 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm1
Not many!
Being such a long way away the weekend warrior thing is hard to convince people on. I've booked and cancelled so many longer trips over the last couple of years due to conditions as well...
 Andy Hardy 16 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

You could get a train to FW - https://www.sleeper.scot/js/#/caledonian/fares (not cheap though!)
 nniff 16 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

I've been battling this for years. The answer is 'GIYF'. Gatwick is your friend.

Train to Gatwick and anywhere thereafter. Sunday night/monday morning flights can be pricy and tricky to book for the right weekend in advance. Equally you can head south to Innsbruck, Zurich, Geneva, etc.

I've tended to drive North leaving at 8pm to arrive at Fort William in time for a cup of tea before staring to walk. Not good for those who don't sleep well in the car and fairly brutal for just two. the drive back is a shocker too, because you start to hit the Monday morning rush-hour traffic.

If your flight into Gatwick is delayed, you can also find that the trains have stopped running and cabs are scarcer than ice-falls in the Home Counties
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 nufkin 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Mr. Lee:

> trying to find partners who climb grade V upwards is very hard

And you can't trust partners who climb them any other way












(Sorry, Alex did say the thread was a bit bleak)
 tspoon1981 16 Nov 2017
In reply to 99ster:

I haven't lived in London for years, and now thankfully live North of the border which makes climbing in winter considerably easier.

What about the Caledonian sleeper? If you book a fixed advance ticket, which is the cheapest option, £50 each way from Euston to Fort William. Get into London Monday morning for 7:45 and head straight to work.
OP alexm198 16 Nov 2017
In reply to tspoon1981:

Yeah I've been keeping an eye on the sleeper. More affordable than I'd have though, with the bonus of being able to sleep all the way. Shame that it needs to be booked so far in advance but I suppose that's not too much of a chore.
 kipman725 16 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

I used the sleeper a lot in 2015/2016. The prices have gone up a bit so not sure if I will be using it as much. Here is the beta:
1. Only Avimore viable for a 2 day weekend as it gets into fort william too late for climbing on Saturday
2. Sleeper seats are good but you need to get your sleeping bag out as the temp fluctuates
3. Bring your own food as the full menu is not avaialble in the seats
4. Bus stops from the ski center pretty early
5. Bus is not synced with the train expect to wait 30 mins in the morning
6. If the snow gate is closed the additional walk in is only 40 mins
7. Needs to be booked very far in advance
8. Curry in Avimore is good
 tspoon1981 16 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:
It isn't ideal for last minute trips, but for a planned long weekend it seems like the best solution. I've booked it to attend a wedding in London in December, it means I can work through the day, sleep over night and not have to get the redeye first thing and then attend a wedding and be at my desk relatively fresh on the Monday.

Looking at timetables, Aviemore might even be the best place to get off, the youth hostel is almost opposite the station, bus up to the Cairngorm and a genteel walk in. If you were quick, you could probably be starting the walk in for 8:30 on the Saturday Morning. Which would give two full days, dinner at the Old Bridge Inn on Sunday and on the train for 21:15.
Post edited at 11:45
 ColdWill 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Andy Hardy: Wow, the sleeper looks awesome, £80 quid return or £105 if you get the flexible option that you can cancel up 12:00 the day before (handy). just need to work on the timings a bit. Bit late into Fort William but the fly/train option might work prety well.
 seankenny 16 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

Scotland a nightmare but Buoux and Siurana are very easy from London...
 Mr. Lee 16 Nov 2017
In reply to ColdWill:

I used to sometimes take the sleeper train. I basically gave up trying to find partners in London and switched tactics to trying to find a partner who could meet me at Aviemore station. Four years ago (last time I used it) I could only book single tickets out of Euston if I booked close to the departure date. This meant I needed to fork out around £200 (single = £100), instead of the standard £130 return fair. And that's just for a seat! I presume this ticketing restriction was a stealth fare increase as the ticketing wasn't restricted in this way a few years prior. It worked out £100 a route, excluding Saturday night accommodation. You have to be very keen (I was)! Or earning a good salary (I wasn't). Else prepared to take a punt on the weather to some degree, although that's going to obviously waste a lot of money as well given the fickle nature of Scottish conditions. I looked at flights but could never find times that allowed a decent climbing window on Sunday.
 ColdWill 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Mr. Lee: It ain't cheap for sure but it's not the cost that stops us getting up there, its the time scale. I would pay the price but it would be pointless, the sleeper is a game changer.
 nniff 16 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

You've got the juices flowing again!

Flight from Gatwick or Luton to Edinburgh or Glasgow at between 1800 and 1900 on a Friday evening - about £100 all in. Hire car (£100) to Fort William and be tucked up in bed by 1100.

Drop the hire car at the airport and get a bus/tram back into the city to get a sleeper back, which leaves at about 11pm. A two bed compartment is £100 each. That gives you two proper full days and dumps you back into the office by 0900 looking 'experienced'.

Evening train is possible but as they get in at about 2200 the car hire places in town are shut, which means you need to get out to the airport which drags the whole thing out.

Call it about £300 a head for two or thereabouts.....

I tend to go for the Thursday night to Monday night thing (sometimes first thing Tuesday morning) by Easyjet
Zurich works really well for that as the evening flight back is at 2100.

Haven't driven overnight for years. Last time, we left at 8pm and got to Fort William at 0400 and started walking at 0500 and still weren't first in the queue for Point 5 (they started walking at 4). Followed that rope of three up it, and were in no fit state for anything the following day. Memorable though - my eyes froze shut in the chimney with all the spindrift coming down. Drove overnight to Aviemore once and stopped somewhere near Glenmore Lodge when the car wouldn't go any further. We woke to find another six inches of snow on the car.
 ColdWill 16 Nov 2017
In reply to nniff: You need to go on rentalcars.com . I just looked at a Glasgow airport Fri 1900 pick up drop off Mon 2000 for £20.66!!!
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 Misha 16 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:
Just get yourself to Birmingham.
OP alexm198 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Misha:

I wondered how long it'd be until the Birmingham crusader showed up in this thread
 planetmarshall 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Misha:

> Just get yourself to Birmingham.

That's never been the answer to any problem.
 Tobes 17 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

Another tactic would be use your annual leave and go for a week (ie 9 days) at a time.

I did this when London/Essex based and on one occasion got as much done in one season as I have done since moving to NE Scotland in a similar time frame.

This also allows you to explore other areas without time restraints. So more remote areas with bigger walks ins will get you to less crowded venues.

This in turn could reduce the pressure/crowding that can occur in the more accessible areas, particularly at the weekends and especially on Sundays.




 jonnie3430 17 Nov 2017
In reply to 99ster:
What about finding an inverness based climbing partner/s? They may already have winter tyres fitted, snow chains in the boot, a spare room to stay in and even a pick up from the airport? They could probably look after your winter kit too.

There's the whole issue of a climbing date to get started (do they faff? Can they climb what they said? Do they get lost on lead?) But once you're sorted, you're in Clover.
Post edited at 10:31
 French Erick 17 Nov 2017
In reply to jonnie3430:

> What about finding an inverness based climbing partner/s? They may already have winter tyres fitted, snow chains in the boot, a spare room to stay in and even a pick up from the airport? They could probably look after your winter kit too.

> There's the whole issue of a climbing date to get started (do they faff? Can they climb what they said? Do they get lost on lead?) But once you're sorted, you're in Clover.

I'm game alexm198. message me. If you find a few more like me it should see you right. I like climbing as a 3 as it makes bags lighter and belays friendlier. I will make a concerted effort to go out twice a month minimum. With maybe an occasional 2 day weekend whenever conditions are outstanding. Goals can be discussed but I have a long list of far away things. I am fairly reliable to a certain point as I have young kids and would also rather avoid antagonising my very patient ladywife.
 jonnie3430 17 Nov 2017
In reply to French Erick:

> I'm game alexm198. message me. If you find a few more like me it should see you right. I like climbing as a 3 as it makes bags lighter and belays friendlier. I will make a concerted effort to go out twice a month minimum. With maybe an occasional 2 day weekend whenever conditions are outstanding. Goals can be discussed but I have a long list of far away things. I am fairly reliable to a certain point as I have young kids and would also rather avoid antagonising my very patient ladywife.

My hands a bit knackered which is why I didn't offer, but feel the same, much prefer climbing as a three, especially when the jetboil hanging kit gets involved.
OP alexm198 17 Nov 2017
In reply to jonnie3430:

Yeah meeting people up there is a good tip! Not sure how keen I am for routes where the jetboil hanging kit will be necessary though... Hope the hand fixes up soon, drop me a message if you're ever keen to get out.

OP alexm198 17 Nov 2017
In reply to French Erick:

Cheers Erick, will shoot you a message!
 planetmarshall 17 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

> Yeah meeting people up there is a good tip! Not sure how keen I am for routes where the jetboil hanging kit will be necessary though... Hope the hand fixes up soon, drop me a message if you're ever keen to get out.

I'll be doing the weekend warrior thing from the Peak occasionally, so you can always meet me enroute and I'm happy to share driving duty.
OP alexm198 17 Nov 2017
In reply to planetmarshall:

Awesome, very keen. We appear to be gathering quite the UKC weekend warrior crew!
 jonnie3430 17 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

Not necessary, just nice.
 Misha 17 Nov 2017
In reply to Tobes:
Yeah but the very real risk is hitting a spell of crap weather / conditions. These days you can go up for a week in Feb and get little done. I suppose you just have to be flexible, either Scotland or Cogne or Rjukan...
 robgixer 18 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

Also hopefully be doing some weekends from Leicester. I have a few local partners but always good to know more willing to travel for the weekend.
 Jim Fraser 18 Nov 2017
In reply to kipman725:

> 5. Bus is not synced with the train expect to wait 30 mins in the morning

Winds me up every time. What is it that Aviemore does not GET about joined-up transport? Grrr!
 boyson 20 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

I lived in London for a year and managed quite a few winter climbing trips. You have to just be really committed and willing to put up with the ridiculous travel plans. Booked 2 week-long trips in February and March and then did weekend blasts every now and then plus Christmas holidays and New Year's day. I found the best solution was either Megabus Gold (so you can lie down) on a Friday eve or train around 6pm (gets in at 11pm) and meet a partner in Glasgow, climb somewhere not far from Glasgow on the first day, stay in a hut, get up early and do a route the second day and then overnight bus or train Glasgow back to London Sunday night for work on Monday. It was really tiring but worth it if you got something done and good to roll up to work Monday having done something fun. If you have money, substitute the Megabus Gold with the Caledonian Sleeper so you can eat and drink. Depends how much you want it i guess. If the conditions weren't great i just did winter munro's, which were good also. Even sitting in a hut by the fire was fun.
 LJKing 20 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

I've done a few winter weekends by car from London over the years. I have also flown which works well but can be expensive and you obviously have to book in advance and hope conditions are okay. I reckon you have more chance of success (and sleep) with four sensible drivers and a big car so you can go when you conditions are okay. Also better in late Feb/March with longer days so you can have a bit of an extended sleep on Saturday morning! I might be up for a couple of trips from London this season if conditions are good.
 El_Dave_H 20 Nov 2017
In reply to boyson:

I did a combo this winter of sleeper train out/mega bus back, for a weekend hit from London which worked out well. Had a day to kill in Edinburgh but rented a locker at the bus station for a reasonable sum to cache my gear while I waited for a mate to knock off work. While I'll almost certainly be doing the train again at some point (since I'm still here), I'm not sure I can hack the mega bus a second time! Mind you, the long-life croissant they gave us on arrival at Victoria was nice.
 Just Will 29 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

There's a small group of us based around London who head up to Scotland every few weekends (conditions dependent). We get the Caledonian Sleeper up on a Friday evening and back on Sunday night. This limits you to either Lochain/Schneachda or the Ben, but still loads to do there!

We went up to Aviemore this weekend - it cost £66 return (with a railcard paying for a seat not a bed), and got Savage Slit and Fallout Corner done on Saturday and Sunday before getting back to Monday morning for work. We actually didnt book the train until the Wednesday before and never book them far in advance so we dont have to go if conditions arent looking good. Unless you book the day before, prices are the same.

It is possible to get up to the Ben too, but the train to Fort William arrives later than the train to Aviemore so it limits the amount of climbing you can do in the light. In the past we avoided this by doing the majority of the climb on Saturday in the dark, which is actually a really great experience (we did Slab Climb like this last year and it was great!). There's still plenty of time on Sunday to get something done too.

Give me a shout if you want to get in the mix!
 ColdWill 29 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198: Just been up last weekend, it was epic. Got a flight to Glasgow (£140 with hold bag) which was delayed and stopped in Manchester to pick up other delayed passengers. Landed in Glasgow at 0130. Hire car place was shut so slept (sort of) in the airport till 0600 the got my car (£40 because the cheapest place closed at 9 and my flight was scheduled for 10pm). Climbed Sat and Sunday and came back Monday. Returned the hire car to the airport and got the bus to the train station (£8). Then the train to London (£29 with railcard), the tube from Euston to Victoria and the National Express to Southampton (£6). So left Glencoe at 9am and arrived back at 9pm.
Last flight back on a Sunday is 2030 which would mean leaving Glencoe at 1730 and starting the walk out at 1530ish so flying back isn't really an option.
Sleeper would be the best option from Glasgow at 2315.
 Ramon Marin 29 Nov 2017
In reply to alexm198:

Hey Alex, I could potentially be interested in the future, but not right now as my psyche has been transposed to rock in the last two winters.

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