Flying out in a week, and going to be in Chamonix to climb two weeks later, and am trying to get some beta on conditions and routes getting done so I can pack appropriately.
I'm specifically interested in D to TD alpine mixed routes, or maybe AD if there's such a thing as a fall mixed AD, and hearing about glacier conditions. I know the lifts won't be running while I'm there, so planning on doing stuff I can approach on foot. Based on the OHM reports, I've seen Fil a Plomb, Couterier Couloir and the Shroud on the Jorasses have been done. Also heard that it was a dry spring and a warm summer, which has resulted in dry north faces (e.g. Jorasses, and Argentiere), and sometimes difficult glacier conditions (e.g. Le Tour was apparently really bad in late summer). But any more up to date info from anybody who's been out there recently would be greatly appreciated, especially if you've got photos.
At the moment I'm especially wondering if skis or double boots would be desirable. I have no sense of what the conditions on the ground are like though, so was planning on bringing a lightweight touring setup, approach skis, snowshoes, supergaiter single boots and double boots to be ready for whatever, but that's a lot of gear to haul out there. If anybody has any beta that would help me narrow that down a bit it would be nice to hear about.
Also open to hearing about mixed alpine conditions elsewhere in the alps. My partner seems to have her eye more on the swiss alps these days, and as of now we're not tied to Chamonix necessarily. Chamonix is just the only place I'm familiar with.
