UKH

Hi everyone, I am thinking of climbing rainier in January. Thinking of doing it unguided, 2 day climb. From what I've read I could stop at Camp Muir and rest. If I go alone I dont think Id head for the summit at 3am, probably just wait for some light. Apart from winter gear I dont think there will be much to pack; boots, crampons, axe, harness(in case I fall in a hole) helmet...

Is it doable? Can I just follow a team that heads out in the middle of the night? I've been on a glacier before and want to begin training without a guide. I'd even consider climbing with a partner for safety.

Thanks for the tips.

In reply to therestofjj:


How's that going to help you if you're not attached to anything/anyone?

In reply to therestofjj:

Have a look at this and start to train to get very very fit.

http://www.mountainguides.com/rnr-winter.shtml

But seriously, why January? It will be extremely cold and the chances of experienced climbers of summiting are less than 20%. The fact you have been on a glacier will not help you one bit with possible temperatures lower than minus 40 and wind speeds in excess of 100mph.

In reply to therestofjj:

Rainier in January is as challenging as Denali in summer, except for lack of people. You will be very lucky to see anyone else climbing unless weather is excellent. High winds, low temperatures and cloud are the norm. Try easy stuff in the alps and you may survive.
The easiest way is to be fit enough to do it round trip in daylight, about 9-10000 feet altitude gain and down in 8hours.

In reply to therestofjj:


If you have to ask if you can solo a big mountain in winter, then probably not.

In reply to therestofjj:

Troll or suicide candidate?

Better just go skiing at Paradise, have a look at the route, then think again.

By most realistic routes, Rainier in winter is almost completely a ski trip, not a climb (all climbing routes would involve loads of skiing for approach and descent as well).

Crevasses will therefore be less of an issue than avalanches and cold/exposure. For the latter, March or April are a much better idea than January.

Otherwise, Rainier is not technically hard, if the weather window is good (despite rumours to the contrary, you can have such windows in the PNW) and you are fit, acclimatized, and an experienced ski alpinist.

Definitely not a good solo objective, though.

CB

In reply to therestofjj:

Your questions suggest that you lack confidence and perhaps experience. Rainier is in a national park and you need a permit to climb, or camp. To get the permit to climb you have to either be with an experienced guide or convince them that you have enough experience.

In reply to therestofjj:

The Pacific Northwest gets an enormous amount of snow in the winter and you will really struggle to get anywhere without skis or snowshoes! Skis are obviously much more fun. +1 for the suggestion of skiing/snowshoeing at Paradise, or you could consider Mount St Helens if the weather is really good...

In reply to cat22:

Yes, the last time I was there (25 years ago...) the area just above Paradise had 9m of precipitation through the course of winter, resulting in something like a 6m snow pack in late spring. Crevasses were no issue while ski touring, but the avalanches were something else!

CB

In reply to cb294:

Had dinner with George Dunn and Phil Erschler when there on a work trip and Phill was telling how he had skied over the visitor centre at Paradise.

In reply to Mikkel:
Yes, I did this too in winter 1985. Not much of a drop on the downhill side, may a meter or so. The rest of the building was fully buried! Most of it was wind blown, though, so not directly applicable to the higher glacier approaches.

CB

Also, on a more gory note, another backcountry skier went missing that winter, and was initially not found. Unfortunately I cannot quite recall whether this was at Paradise or near Stevens Pass a bit further North. They then started searching for the guy again in summer, and eventually found him in a region they had already searched several times. However, they had always searched at ground level, but instead he had been impaled on the tip of a tree, which after the snow pack melted left his corpse 6m or so above ground!

In reply to cb294:

Yikes

and i always really loved the look of those trees.

In reply to therestofjj:

Hey.

I went there on a crevasse rescue course last winter (February). There was *a lot* of snow. It snowed about two feet each day.

I would plan three days, if it's done in two, great. But it's nice to have that extra day if it starts snowing like crazy.

Are you planning on going there this January, or 2019?

I could potentially be interested, if you feel like company?

In reply to therestofjj:
I'm Normally very supportive of people going and getting stuff DONE but this seems unwise.

I applaud your ambition.