Best Low Grade Crags

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 her_t6 17 Aug 2017

Hi,

Looking for some inspiration on some crags with lots of low end grade climbs VD - S(maybe HS 4a/4b). Ideally the rock must be reasonably stable and not bothered about height(small or larger crags). A good range of maybe 20 - 50 routes at this grade either in Scotland, Northern England, Lake District. Also would be open to suggestions if 2 crags were nearby so I could visit both on the same day to get a good amount of routes in.

Cheers,

Tommy
Post edited at 11:45
 PanzerHanzler 17 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

Coming a bit further southern south to the peak distict.

Windgather for some grit and Harborough Rocks for some limestone. Good for a weekend with a day at each. Can't help much further north.
 Stuart S 17 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

There are a few options on the east coast of Scotland that fit your criteria. South of Aberdeen, you've got Souter Head and Black Rock Gulch which are close enough to be combined in a day, and there is also Alan's Cliff, Deceptive Wall and Hidden Inlet all within walking distance of each other. The routes tend to be short and few stand out in terms of quality, but there's plenty to go at.

North of Aberdeen, the rock is granite and the climbing is better, but there's fewer easy routes to pick from. That said, you could still get a good couple of days out of Meikle Partans, Fulmar Wall and Greymare Slabs.
 Tom Valentine 17 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

Grey Crag, Buttermere.
Very user friendly , great views, good choice in the range you're talking about.
 MischaHY 17 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

Get yourself to Windgather, it's about the most friendly crag there is (other than the wind in the name!).

In the Lakes, I've had a good time with groups at Stickle Barn Crag.
 Liam Ingram 17 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

Gimmer has a fantastic set of Severes.
 Greenbanks 17 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

For a low-key Lakes experience, Tarn Crag is great...
In reply to her_t6:

In Snowdonia, the east face of Tryfan.
 Michael Gordon 17 Aug 2017
In reply to Stuart S:

Aberdeen sea cliffs is OK but not worth coming a huge distance for. In Scotland, for a single pitch low grade mecca the top of my list would be Reiff!
 plyometrics 17 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

Rylestone.

Rylstone
 Jon Stewart 17 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

The best crag in England is Scafell. I haven't done any of the routes in that range, but one day I will, as they're total classics (and there's whole chunks of the crag that climb around that grade). I think climbing on Scafell is in a different league to climbing on any other crag in the country, but this is partly because it's such an unbelievable pain in the arse to get there and to get it in condition, so when it happens it's almost supernatural. It will only be on a fantastic summer day, when you've got the time off and the right partners are available that you'll go and have the most memorable days climbing ever.
2
OP her_t6 18 Aug 2017
In reply to PanzerHanzler:

I will certainly need to check out Windgather and Harborough Rocks they look perfect!
OP her_t6 18 Aug 2017
In reply to Stuart S:

Awesome looking on UKC they look ideal - what guidebook is best which covers those areas?
OP her_t6 18 Aug 2017
In reply to Tom Valentine:

Looks perfect - it sure does look user friendly and the views look amazing! Cheers!
OP her_t6 18 Aug 2017
In reply to MischaHY:

Another +1 for windgather - looks like this has to be visited soon! Cheers!
OP her_t6 18 Aug 2017
In reply to Liam Ingram:

I have actually heard alot of good thing about Gimmer so i just need to get my arse there soon by the sounds of it.
OP her_t6 18 Aug 2017
In reply to plyometrics:

Rylestone looks ideal - likely the one that stands out most. Looks like a trip there will need to happen soon! Cheers!
OP her_t6 18 Aug 2017
In reply to Michael Gordon:

I went to Reiff when I first started climbing but don't think I appreciated it enough due to my ability and wasn't leading. I actually keep meaning to try get back there - hopefully will before the years out. Cheers for the recommendation!w
 Simon Caldwell 18 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

> I will certainly need to check out Windgather and Harborough Rocks they look perfect!

I wouldn't get your hopes up too much - both have a load of routes at the required grades, but have little else to recommend them IMHO. The climbing is nice enough, the outlook pleasant (if you ignore the Harborough cement works), but neither is particularly memorable.
 Stuart S 18 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

They're all in Northeast Outcrops. The area tends to be a bit too esoteric to make it into the selective Scottish guides! I should also have mentioned Logie Head as a lovely spot on the Banffshire coast, again with probably enough to keep you entertained for a day.

However, I would agree with the recommendation of Reiff being the best option for low-grade Scottish cragging!
OP her_t6 18 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Ah not so good - might pop by and check it out next time I'm down that way. It mostly was for solo days and just seems theres plenty to have a go at but I wont get my hopes up to much though. Cheers!
OP her_t6 18 Aug 2017
In reply to Stuart S:

Nice one - I actually keen meaning to buy that book. Logie Head looks like it could be a good day out - once i buy Northeast Outcrops I might have a better idea. Awesome - always good to get back ups on crag recommendations. Cheers!
 Greenbanks 18 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

A further suggestion: Wallowbarrow Crag must surely be one of the nicest locations coupled with a clutch of amenable VD-VS routes in the Lakes. Gets reasonable weather too...
 C Witter 18 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

Pretty much anywhere in the Lakes.

Wallowbarrow Crag - all of the "selected" lines here are VS or below

Anything in Langdale, but particularly Scout Crags, Raven Crag (Langdale), Gimmer Crag and Bowfell Buttress (HS 4b). Kettle Crag is also very good, but the approach is a bit of an ass. Red Slab (S 4a) is a little classic, and Stonechat (VD) is a good warm up. Plenty to do over the hill, on Long Crag and, 3 minutes from there, the not to be missed mini-classic VDiff of Black Crag: The Needle (VD) - which has even some HVS leaders hesitating, as it involves pretty much jumping across a gap from a detatched pinnacle to the crag top...

Borrowdale has a ton of good crags - everyone goes to Shepherd’s Crag and it's very close to Black Crag (Borrowdale), which has one of the best UK severe routes: Troutdale Pinnacle (S). Up the combes close by are some classic mountain crags.

Or in Coniston, Dow Crag and Little How Crag are worth a punt - with classics being Murray's Route (S 4a), Arête, Chimney and Crack (Summer) (S 3c) and Giant's Crawl (Summer) (D). There's good scrambling to be had, too.

Gouther Crags is less frequented, but has a fantastic severe:Kennel Wall (S 4a). And you can stop off at Trowbarrow from the M6 quite easily, for Jomo (VD), Ramp Ant (S 4a) and a great HS 4a traverse Truffle (HS 4c) - as well as the VS trinity.

And then there's Wasdale...

 Simon Caldwell 18 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

Solo days, that's a bit different.
You could do a lot worse than Scugdale - Scot Crags
OP her_t6 18 Aug 2017
In reply to C Witter:

Very useful post! A good list of crags to have a go at. It seems like the lakes has so much to offer and I don't actually know why I havent climbed there yet considering its only over an hour away. This will change soon though!

Cheers again!
 petegunn 18 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
+1 for Scugdale, I managed 117 routes on a lovely sunny day, beautiful area and climbs : )
Northumberland also has many crags that generally get much better weather than the lakes and are good in your grade range
Post edited at 13:25
OP her_t6 18 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Totally agree - I should have stated it was for solo days also aswell as easy days with people I know who climb lower grades. Sorry for the confusion but Scugdale suits what I would be after for a solo day, thanks!
OP her_t6 18 Aug 2017
In reply to petegunn:

117 thats good going, well in! Defo going to go visit
 Cam Forrest 18 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

You say you're not bothered whether the crag is big or small. So, in Scotland the list should include: the Polldubh Crags in Glen Nevis; Buachaille Etive Mor and East and Far East Faces of Aonach Dubh in Glencoe™; and Sron na Ciche on Skye. Mind you, you'll be pushed to do a dozen routes in a day on Sron na Ciche........
 petegunn 20 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

Good crags to get 10+ routes in

Lakes:
Long Scar
Brantrake
Gaitkins
Woodens Face

Northumberland:
Berryhill
Bowden Doors
Crag Lough/Peel Crag
Curtis Crag
Kyloe (out)

Eden Valley:
Windmore End
Scratchmere Scar
Headend Quarry

North York Moors:
Scugdale
Wainstones

others,
Goldsborough
Slipstones
Brimham Rocks
Chapel-le-dale
OP her_t6 20 Aug 2017
In reply to petegunn:

Thank you mate - a good list! Visited a few and defo got 10+ routes in at all of them but will add the extras onto my list which i havent been to yet.
 Bulls Crack 20 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

Crag Lough/Peel Crag - lots of quality stuff in that grade range and a fine outlook Crag Lough
 Simon Caldwell 21 Aug 2017
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Good shout - one of the best crags in the country at those grades!
 Simon Caldwell 21 Aug 2017
In reply to petegunn:

> Scratchmere Scar

Currently banned
 Andy Hardy 21 Aug 2017
In reply to petegunn:

Headend quarry isn't in the Eden valley (IIRC)

To the OP:
I keep meaning to visit Pikes Crag on Scafell Pikes Crag
 petegunn 23 Aug 2017
In reply to Andy Hardy:

Yeah but its in the Eden Valley guide along with the others, forgot Scratchmere is currently banned : (
In reply to her_t6:

> Rylestone looks ideal - likely the one that stands out most. Looks like a trip there will need to happen soon! Cheers!

Rolling gate just along the moor from rylstone is nearly as good too.

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