New edition of "Scrambles in Snowdonia"

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 Mike Peacock 14 Aug 2017
This is almost certainly of interest to people; an updated edition of Steve Ashton's "Scrambles in Snowdonia" has just been released. I was aware that Cicerone had been wanting to update this for some years now, but the release passed me quietly by. The contents list show that the route selection has been expanded quite a bit. I'm familiar with a few of the 'new' routes as they were also in the Ogwen CC guide (e.g. those on Tryfan West Face) but there are also some intriguing ones I've never heard of; Esgair Felen Direct anyone?

https://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/890/title/scrambles-in-s...
In reply to Mike Peacock:

Sounds exciting, and not before time! We've an article by the authors coming out soon, and there'll be a review at some stage too
 d_b 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Mike Peacock:

My ancient red and white edition I got from a charity shop a decade ago is the best 80p I ever spent. I will certainly be taking a look at this one.
OP Mike Peacock 14 Aug 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:

I've got two versions; a old first edition and a second edition which I think is the one still sold. The first edition had an interesting page at the end of each geographic chapter (e.g. Glyderau) where it suggested possible cliffs/ridges for other scrambling opportunities. Those sections never made it into the second edition for some reason.

I can't help but feel that if the new one has photo topos it will destroy the classic experience of being on an Ashton scramble and wondering whether you're still on the correct route or not!
 d_b 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Mike Peacock:

I always thought the drawings were pretty good. I'm not sure photo topos make a big difference one way or another on mountain routes, as the picture is usually taken from several miles away and it's impossible to get fine detail.
 Philip 14 Aug 2017
Anyone know what route the cover photo is from?
 d_b 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Philip:

It looks like the pinnacle ridge on pen yr ole wen.
OP Mike Peacock 14 Aug 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:

It is indeed. "Braich Ty Du Face (including Pinnacle Ridge and Porcupine Ridge)" is the name in the guide.
 Jamie Hageman 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:
Have you got the Gary Smith North Wales Scrambles guide book Dan? https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Books/North-Wales-Scrambles-Mountain-Snowdonia/0...

I recommend it!
Post edited at 13:37
In reply to Jamie Hageman:
No, but always thought it looks great. I wouldn't have much call for it myself, sadly, since I rarely make it south of the Lakes these days
Post edited at 13:52
mysterion 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Mike Peacock:

I have come to see Scrambles in Snowdonia as my personal 'core text' so look forward to seeing this
 angry pirate 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Mike Peacock:

Thanks for that! Ordered one this morning and looking forward to ticking them off
 d_b 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Mike Peacock:

Of course the really important question is "Does the new edtion still have that route description for Yr Esgair?"
 Y Gribin 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Jamie Hageman:

> Have you got the Gary Smith North Wales Scrambles guide book Dan? https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Books/North-Wales-Scrambles-Mountain-Snowdonia/0...

> I recommend it!

Yup second this.
The Smith book is written with real local enthusiasm and quickly replaced Ashton as my go to guide. I'm slowly ticking my way through it.....will be interesting to compare with the new edition.
OP Mike Peacock 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Y Gribin:
The Smith book is excellent and has some brilliant photos in, but I was slightly confused as to why certain longstanding routes were apparently renamed. I don't have the book to hand but False Gribin becoming something like Y Gribin True Start is one that springs to mind.
Post edited at 15:59
 Simon Caldwell 14 Aug 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:

> Of course the really important question is "Does the new edtion still have that route description for Yr Esgair?"

The contents Page on the Cicerone site has

Route 53 Yr Esgair 3S*

So presumably the description must have changed for it to have been given a star!
 Jamie Hageman 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

The perfect route to try my 'Hageman Turf Axe' out on
 Stichtplate 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Y Gribin:

> Yup second this.

> The Smith book is written with real local enthusiasm and quickly replaced Ashton as my go to guide. I'm slowly ticking my way through it.....will be interesting to compare with the new edition.

Another vote for the Smith book. Route descriptions/illustrations seem much clearer than in the Cicerone. I'll be interested to see the new edition though.
 d_b 16 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

I made the mistake of suggesting it to some friends as a joke. One of them called my bluff. If I'm not around after the BH weekend you know why.
 tagscuderia 23 Aug 2017
In reply to Mike Peacock:
What's everybody's take on the grading between this and the North Wales Scrambles (Garry Smith) book?
Maybe Tower Rib 3 (2), Needle's Eye Arete 3 (2), Sentries' Ridge a 3- (2)
I'm not sure why Tower Rib has been re-graded as a 3, traditionally it's always been a 2 right? And now it's rated harder than Cneifion and Dolmen?! There's some route finding but nothing technical.
Needle's and Sentries' I haven't done but would like to, however now I'm a bit unsure; I've always found Garry Smith's grades to be spot on. I research my routes carefully as I climb solo with no kit but I know my comfort zone e.g, there are routes on Tryfan that I would never attempt! But I climbed Cneifion for the first time last weekend and had no problems down-climbing from above the chimney (I'd gone up without backpack to check difficulties).
Great book though, hoping to get out this weekend and try some new routes. Cheers.
 Simon Caldwell 23 Aug 2017
In reply to tagscuderia:

I've done Sentries and thought the grade 3S was spot on - sustained, quite tricky, and with some suspect rock (though less than there was before we got there!)
 tagscuderia 23 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Haha, yes I've read numerous reports of it being in a state of decay. 3S is miles from the 2 that Garry Smith has graded it... hmm, maybe one best saved for winter? Thanks.
P.S, have fun on Yr Esgair, probably won't be trying that one anytime soon!
Post edited at 16:12
OP Mike Peacock 23 Aug 2017
In reply to tagscuderia:

Wasn't Maybe Tower Ridge 2/3 in the original Ashton? I don't have it to hand.
 tagscuderia 25 Aug 2017
In reply to Mike Peacock:
Ahh, could be; I don't have the original Ashton guidebook. I did find Tower harder than Cneifion (which really should be a 2/3 max itself) but I also got cramp in both calves halfway up so...
The description for Dolmen is positively vague, I'll take the Garry Smith book this weekend I think! Cheers.
 d_b 28 Aug 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:

Well, Yr Esgair is completely out of my system now. Steve Ashton apparently wasn't exaggerating.

I came, I saw, I ran away.
 ben b 28 Aug 2017
In reply to Mike Peacock:

The online appendix is very entertaining and in the true style of Ashton

"At best this is an approach for scramblers keen to save money on acupuncture treatment by having close encounters with unavoidable quantities of gorse. With an intervening descent, the route can be incorporated into an ascent of the full Braich Ty Du Face (Route 2) – but the only real merit in doing so would be to accentuate the quality of the other route. If determined to climb this right-hand start (and you really do need to be determined) a rope, long trousers and experience of climbing on hazardous vegetation are essential".

and

"An unpleasant and insecure route of interest only to Jenga enthusiasts who will be delighted by the toppling blocks they will encounter".

Excellent!

b
 veteye 29 Aug 2017
In reply to Jamie Hageman:

> Have you got the Gary Smith North Wales Scrambles guide book Dan?

Is that the white book at ~£20?
If so, when I scanned through it.it did not seem to have route lengths in it, just a time to get to the start.


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